 |
October 11, 2019
Pants Fitting - Part 2
Why do we spend so much time trying to fit our pants? Because they really are a joy to wear, and when they look good, there's no other piece of clothing like it. Yes, they are hard to fit, but here's the thing, with some concentrated effort a pants pattern that works, can be one of your most valuable and useful tools in your sewing studio.
I remember when my teacher first taught me how to make a pants pattern for my body. This was back when I was in my late 20's which was a long time ago. Now, that same pattern doesn't work today (although I still have it someplace), but I still use versions of it today.
Here's why. Because of our genes, our bones, muscles, fat and even our skin forms differently to each body. Some of us put on our bulk in certain parts, while others put on bulk in other parts. This is all determined by our genes. Some of it we can control, but some of it, like our bones, we cannot. It's simply what our parents gave us and that's it.
What's really nice about this is that when we do put on weight, it's always in the same. Although you may think that you put on more in your hips than in your arms or more in your bust than in your thighs, the actual truth is that you put on your weight overall the same way all through your life.
This helps us to know this when we finally do have a pants pattern that works. Because once we have that shape, then we can simply practically draw a line on the inseam and side seams, and boom we've got the alteration as we age with our pants pattern. This is exactly what happened to me. But I've not only noticed this with my own figure, I've seen in time and again when my debs come to me wanting their deb dress (when they have the "freshman 15")
converted to their wedding gown (when they are back at their more normal weight), that the gown simply needs to be taken in about the same amount on the side seams and it's a done deal. Their original shape which I fit when they were debs is still good, it's simply a matter of taking in the side seams and the dress is good to go.
So this means once you have a good pants pattern, then as you go up and/or down in weight you will remain the same shape, but change the size slightly. And this is not like grading a pattern. This is determined by your genes, not by a grading system created by some mathematical formula. Of course, this is one of the many benefits of sewing - that you can finally create a pair of pants that you can actually work for you instead of the other way around.
Steps toward a great pants fit
1. When you're determining the size for your fit, use your hip or waist size.
2. The hang is everything. Most of the time we wear our jackets, coats, tunics and tops out of our pants which means if our hang isn't right, then the pants look wrong even though they may feel right. And what's better is that this isn't that hard of a problem to solve.
3. Today's look has really centered around a pant that is not baggy in the seat, but is not constraining when you move - like sitting, getting in and out of a car or bending down to pick something up.
4. Let's face it, these pants have to be comfortable or frankly we aren't going to wear them.
For the last 2½ years I've been teaching this Ponte Pant class and it's one of my students' favorites. I've put the key parts into a great resource in the Resource Library for everyone to enjoy.
The most wonderful thing about pants is that once you get a pattern it takes a matter of hours to make them up and they become a loved member of your wardrobe. I have about 10 pairs in my closet and love everyone of them!
Check it out in the Resource Library here.
There’s nothing more evident about the change in fashion that the inclusion of the dress in our wardrobe. It clearly shows the move toward a more feminine look, but not the feminine look of the 80s hourglass, extended shoulders or the feminine look of the 1950’s […]
Read more →
p
Or as I like to call it the FQJ for short. This is that famous jacket from France that everyone wants. From the grandest of grande dames of high society to the most forward of music divas, all of them find the jacket not only appropriate for […]
Read more →
p
I get this lots of times in my class and it’s one of those things that students don’t even know to ask – where’s the shoulder?! I guess it shows how fashion has so moved the goalposts that basic things like the shoulder placement aren’t really considered. […]
Read more →
PS - I do a lot of posting on Facebook as both Claire Kennedy and SewingArtistry - if you want to friend me to check out the goodies over there for free!
To view this email in browser or to see past emails click here.
|
|
Follow Us!
   
 
|
|
