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August 9, 2019
So what is a TNT pattern. I saw this for 3 years before I finally asked Carolyn over on Diary of A Sewing Fanatic. It not only makes a lot of sense, it's one of those things I had been doing for years, and never put a "name" to
it.
TNT patterns are Tried 'N True patterns. What they really are, is a basic pattern that has been altered to fit your body just the way you like. Usually a person has anywhere from 4 to 8 patterns at a time. They won't always remain the same, and the amount can change as time goes on, but a collection of these are wonderful to have and so empowering.
Right now I have about 7 patterns that are in my TNT collection. All of the pics below are linked except for the ones that are out of print.
It's summer, so summer tops, particularly shirt types are great for me, but not the boxy kind.
What the technical sketch doesn't show is that I've added an FBA to it and I took off the French cuffs. The French cuffs are great, but for a casual beach type shirt, I don't really like it - it's too fussy and dressy. I've made this shirt about a gazillion times and love it.
What's secretly amazing about TNT patterns is that you can make them up over and over in different fabrics and people have no idea that it's the same pattern at all!
Another great pattern is for leggings - there's gobs of these out there, but I like this one cause it has a good rise (the space from the bottom of the crotch or the top of the inseam to the waist).
The great thing here is that I can literally pull these puppies out of the envelope (there's only one piece), and cut them out. I've made them so many times (2 winter black, 2 summer black, red, 7 or so in patterns, about 5 in other solid colors), that I've really lost track. Every once in a while I'll draw up the pattern again as the old one has been cut so many times. I've already made my
swayback adjustment and the rise is adjusted and the length is a little optional - leaving a longer pant for winter boots and such to tuck into. It's all done - all
Now I know leggings aren't every one's most favorite garment, but I adore my leggings under a longer beach type shirt, tunic, even a knit type short dress type top cause they add a bit extra and hide my ugly knees and can often lengthen my look by being the same color as a tank top under a chiffon tunic or top. They really are a handy addition to my wardrobe.
For a great pant for when I have a piece of fabric but it's not stretchable enough for leggings, then I use this New Look 6110.
Unfortunately it's not available any more which is a shame cause it's also a perfect alternative for people who don't like leggings at all - or have hinky calves or legs. This fits close to the body but not body-hugging like leggings and yet offers the same sort of lengthening type look. I'm looking for another alternative for this pant for those students who do not like wearing
leggings.
This is my favorite ponte or stable knit pant pattern these days. It's great for the Hourglass and Pear shape (for the Rectangle and Apple see below). It hangs well almost out of the envelope and is beautifully drafted. After I altered this for my rise (and sway back), which was a matter of adding some inches to the top, all I have to do is take it out of the envelope and cut and put it together. Then
select which hem I want (for my wedgey shoes or my flats or my boots) and I'm done! Too easy.
In my ponte pant class, this is the one I've been recommending lately for my Apple and Rectangle shapes. Again it is drafted so beautifully and with a stable knit hangs well, but has that "Aaaaah" feeling every time you sit down. Once the rise and hang is solved on this, it's a quick time from cutting it out to on your body!
Another great pattern for summer and winter is a great turtleneck and nothing beats this pattern.
But this is also discontinued. This is what I find with a lot of sewists' TNT list is that they are made up of a few discontinued patterns. But don't sweat, cause these patterns are almost classic enough that you can find one that works really well for you.
You do have to make those alterations and tweaking to them, but once you have them you know exactly what to expect. This is another one that takes about a day to make up, sometimes less if I don't have to match or work around a pattern in the fabric. And it fits like a dream. On this one I've tweaked the collar so that it is really snug around my thin, bird-like neck which I really like. But the
tee is also great - see how long the pattern is? I love that about this pattern. Both the turtleneck and the tee are looooong!
OK - so this pattern looks like something straight out of the 1970s and I'm turning hippie again. But I knew the minute I saw this in that month's BurdaStyle magazine how utterly cool this pattern was.
What you may not be able to see is that the body of this pattern is way beyond cool. First off it has those FBAs already drafted in, so that means there's going to be a great fit in the front, and the back has a center back seam, where I can fit my sway back and look pretty great. Now the sleeve ruffle is for the birds, and I'm not a V-neck sorta gal, so all I had to do was redraft a crewneck, or a little gentler (lower) crew neck and take the ruffle off and I had a
pattern. This is a knit top and I swear if I make this up one more time, the pattern police are going to come and do an intervention! This is one of my staple TNTs and if the pattern police do come - I will hide this in my safe so they can't take it away from me.
A few top patterns, and few bottom patterns and pretty soon you'll have your own collection of go-to patterns that you can pull out at a moment's notice and you're off and running. You'll notice I don't have any skirts and right now I'm not wearing skirts. And I don't have any dress patterns, but I'm on the hunt for a couple of good dress patterns cause dresses are making a huge comeback!
Now that doesn't sound like a lot of patterns, but I can take these and do a gazillion type variations on them - add a yoke on the shirt, add a bib and make my patchwork shirt, make the shirt short sleeved, make the shirt long to mid-thigh for a cool short tunic or even to mid-calf for a longer dressy tunic. The pants are great for all sorts of different uses - more formal, less formal, more casual, knock-around, or for
"a look" - patterned leggings are great for this. I can make up my whole wardrobe from this. Although in reality these aren't the only patterns I use. But what happens with the others is that I make them up and then think - OK that was nice, but it doesn't really fill a major hole in my wardrobe, and then don't make it up again. The true TNTs are the ones that you use over and over and over.
It can be as many as you like, but keeping below 10 patterns means a more manageable amount, and you can change them when you like. Some last for a loooooong time, some don't, but they all fulfill a need in your wardrobe while they were in your TNT Collection. The amount of tops to bottoms don't have to match, and if you don't like skirts or dresses or pants you don't have to include them. This is all about what works for you. And I know you all have
your fav patterns. What you may not realize is that you can make them up over and over again and in different fabrics and they will all have different uses. I made up the bottom tunic for the opening night at the Metropolitan Opera in New York City and felt totally dressed to the nines but I was in a knit and I was probably the most comfy person there that night!
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