June 19, 2020

So, I've got some of this delicious Tilton Sisters knit fabric that I purchased (one of those cool combos) and I made a great top in it. 


And I thought that was great, but I had quite a bit of fabric left over - you know bigger than normal hunks.  So I thought I would like leggings with this fabric too.  And believe me I won't wear them together - this is a strong pattern combo, so wearing them together would put peoples' eyes out and I really don't want to make the world blind, simply with my coordinating outfits!

But with a solid top, this would be a kickin' pair of pants.  But neither piece is long enough to fit the leggings.   So what's a sewists to do?

Why not go to the famous Lululemon site and see what's over there. 













So I buzz on over there and they have some interesting insets and pieces in leggings that really started me thinking that if I could only get part of the leggings out of the big piece and the rest out of the small piece, this would work.  I'm not really hot on a side seam and want to keep the majority of the piece to the inseam and that's it.

So now I have a design!


OK - so this drawing leaves a lot to the imagination and I didn't finish it, because I could tell it was going to work.  

This sketch step is vital - not important, but absolutely imperative.  The sketch can help you solve a lot of problems other than good design, which is also a necessary part of the process.  But thinking about things like - How am I going to make that center back seam thing work?...do I need to tilt those stripes for better illusion for smaller hips?...which way?

And again the sketch comes to the rescue.

And again the sketch can answer that question.  Our eyes know what's right and what's wrong and when it's right and when it's wrong.  In this case the same of the stripe inset - the longer version is on the left side because the stripes are longer and move the eye more.  This just so happens to be the same direction of the original top.  (look at the reflection in the mirror)


Courtesy of the sketch or the croquis, I can now draw out my pattern with a real good picture of what it's going to look like.  Now believe it or not this next step is a lot easier simply because I've answered most of my design and assembly questions by working them out in the sketch. 



On the left is my traced copy of my core pattern leggings.  All I had to do was draw out my lines the way I had them on my sketch.  Now, you're going to think that, "I'm not an artist, Claire.  I can't draw anything!"  And you're going to hear me say - "Yes, you can!" 







This isn't actually drawing as much as it is copying the line you have on your sketch to come pretty close to the line on your pattern.  I wanted the top of the inset to hit above my knee, so I measured from my waist to knee and made a little mark to remind me where that is.  Then simply by drawing a curve (and if you feel funny about this use this styling curve to help you out) then matching the curve but making the bottom one a little lower, I got exactly what I wanted.

Now - here's the plus on this!  I got the leggings cut out of this kickin' fabric that I love so much and they came out fabulous.  There are several reasons for this:

1. I used a core-pattern that I know works and fits me (yeah, I've got a serious sway back and my leggings are a lot higher in back than in front,
2. I worked out all my questions, problems and solutions in the sketch
3. I got some ideas on how to solve my big original design by going online and looking at some very popular and professional sites (even though they will be made out of really bad fabrics their design concepts are good).

This is the normal course of how to make a

• garment that fits
• garment that works
• saving time through
  • working through design problems/solutions
  • creating takes some adapting,
  • working with other concepts,
  • altering those concepts to work for you and
  • problem-solving design solutions

So here's the proof of how much fun this is - took me about 5 hours to design, draw croquis, draw sketch, draft pattern, and sew it up, but these are leggings.




And of course the details that NO ONE will ever see as this is the part of my bod I hide like crazy, but look at those stripes matching!!!



OK - one last lesson - I can't resist - before and after pressing, even on knits.  This shows you NEVER judge your seam till after you press it.  
Before  After
















See - even on knits it makes a world of difference, and makes your work look like a seasoned professional!


Yeah, the first time you do this, it's hard - I won't lie, but it's also enormously exhilarating.

 And the second time is less hard, but just as exhilarating....
the sixth time is getting into the hang of it and
the sixteenth time, it's old hat and a piece of cake! 

Doesn't take long before you begin to think, "Holy Cow - I can make anything and it will look good on me, feel good on me and gives me a real high to make!" 

And you'll be right - it will be your own high! 
 

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June's Feature Resource

Each month, I'd like to feature a Resource from the SewingArtistry Resource Center.  Sometimes it will be something new.  And this week I wanted to start out with something that you might not necessarily associate with sewing. And while it's a feature Resource for that month, it will be 15% off.

You all know that I think of all of us sewists as artists.  Yeah, yeah, I've heard it before - I'm not an artist.  I take a pattern that's already made and I cut it out according to the directions and then make it up and that's not an artist. 

Oh boy, let me tell you what.  There are so many artistic activities in that "not an artist" process that it's amazing.  Let's count them real quick:
1.) The Pattern:  What do you think happens when you start with a pattern?  The first thing is to customize it for your shape, size and style.  This is a basic design and artistic technique.   
2.)  The Fabric:  Yes the pattern envelope gives you ideas  on fabric but doesn't say exactly what to purchase.  You choose the fabric.  This is a major - let me say that again a MAJOR design decision.
3.)  The Buttons:  You choose the buttons for the pattern - another MAJOR design decision (read #2 over again).
4.)  The Notions:  You choose the notions for the design.  The interfacing, thread color, zipper color, length, type (invisible, exposed, lapped, etc.) and these are all again major design decisions in the garment.

But here's the thing;  what's the difference between these two dresses?

Why does one of them look right and the other just misses it?  You can tell that one is right and the other isn't, but you may not know why?  If you don't know why, then how are you going to know how to fix it. 

Here's another one:


Yes, we all know that this makes Kate Winslet look very thin and curvy, but why?  Exactly what did the designer use to make Ms. Winslet look busty when she's really not that busty?


This one might be a little harder but you certainly know that one looks better than the other.

They are both neat outfits, and there's nothing wrong with either of them, but one looks a little better.  It snaps out while the other one looks plain and rather blah.  What happen here that made that snap happen?  How can you apply that to your garments?

That's what this resource is all about with specific examples for all the aspects of design.  These are known as the Elements (parts) and Principles (Techniques) of Design.  They aren't that hard to know and you really don't have to memorize these.  But what's empowering here is to know that they exist, so that if something is off with your garment, you can refer to this and take it apart and see what's going on.  The more you use these techniques, the more you will feel comfy using it.  At first, it's going to seem very foreign, but having this resource on your computer always available for reference can be a very valuable tool for your creative designs. 

There are 2 versions: 

The Elements and Principles of Design is located here

This is the basics of the Elements and Principles with a basic Color section.  This will give you the basics of design with a brief color section.  This includes videos and additional downloads within the document. 

The Elements and Principles of Design with Color is located here.

This is the Elements, Principles and Color section on steroids.  It has a complete Color section that goes into detail about not only how to look at color a completely different way, but a great guide for how to purchase color at online fabric stores and feel that you know what color you are getting. 

Both are 15% off for the month of June as the feature Resource for this month. 
 

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