February 7, 2019

First, thank you so much for so many of your responses.  I was bowled over by your compliements and how much this weekly email means to a lot of you.  Thank you so much for your kind words and it warms my heart that these mean as much to you as much as I love writing them for you. 

I'm not surprised by the results, but about 87% of you are Boomers, about 10% are Gen Xer's and 3% (go for it) are Millennials.  There are no Gen Zer's and again, I'm not surprised.  This last group have known nothing but really one trend of fashion for 30 years - way too long, and as far as fashion changing, they've never experienced it.  We Boomers have known change, and we've also know fashion to mostly be a friend to us in that it always seemed to strive to make us look better, flatter us, and even intended to be comfortable as well as enhance our look in a more positive way.  I've always felt sorry for those Gen Zer's cause they've never experienced that.  But it is coming in the 2020s and will be a force to reckon and a huge change for this generation!

So thanks for your responses.  As well, now you know how to get me.  And if there's anything you're wondering about - something that's a specific problem (many of you mentioned fitting, and yes I know that's a constant concern while sewing), please just email me.  You can always hit "Reply" and I'll get it!
 

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Now then onto something that is not really seen, but just as important, and I guess it's seen in the fact that you know it when it's not there:  Notions.

On the backs of envelopes or in the descriptions on patterns, you will naturally need the fashion fabric, but then there are mentioned notions.  These are the extra little do-dahs that you need to finish your garment professionally. 


And this is probably the most boring part of the back of the envelope - the Notions (not the fabric part).  But here's the thing:  that interfacing, batiste lining, hair canvas stuff is all important and it makes for a beautiful garment. 

Here's the tradition and reasoning on this. 

• The buttons are obvious, but they are so that the wearer can open and close the jacket as they desire.
• The size of the buttons is important as the larger buttons are in front while the smaller buttons are on the sleeve.  Apparently this sleeve button came from a rather persnickety obsessed Austrian king who designed uniforms for his soldiers that were white (yeah, I know mud, blood and guts doesn't do well with white, but this was royalty and their idea of practicality ???!), and guess what happened?  His troups started wiping their noses and other orafices with the sleeve of their jackets and the kind didn't like it so had buttons put on the sleeve to deter the cuffs from being handy hankies!  Now you know more than you want to about why buttons are on the cuff of traditional jacket sleeves!
• Shoulder pads:  I know, you're shoulders are already too wide, too big, stick out too much.  Don't worry this is not the shoulder pads of the 1980s.  What this is, is a crispness that a good shoulder must have in a tailored jacket.  That's really important here.  Sloppy or slopping shoulders are awful in a jacket. 

This shows the remarkable difference that a shoulder can make, and it's as much in the placement of the shoulder line as it is in the shoulder pad.  Do NOT discount this.  If you have a large or prominent shoulder, use a smaller pad.  If you don't, do yourself a favor and balance out that small shoulder with a decent pad.  It doesn't have to be 1", 1/2" is fine.  But use it.

• The remnant organza is used for many things, probably in this case for the bound buttonholes (that's what I would use it for)
• The lampswool is a thin small strip of wool that is placed in the header of the shoulder pad to make the shoulder shape extra crisp. 

The tailored jacket based on the men's tailored jacket and there is no one more impeccably tailored than James Bond and this shows all the points that are in this jacket that make these suits so stunning.  Even though the stance (the place where the first button hits) is lowest in Connery's version, higher in Moore's version and lower again in Craig's version and the lapels are all sorts of widths, the basics are all there

• • immaculately tailored and hand-picked roll lines on the lapels which cause them to lay flatly but roll slightly at the stance, not pressed flat (like you see in cheaper suits).
  • Look at those shoulders and see how the shoulders actually extend out further than the seam. This is a sign that a gob of fabric has been eased into that sleeve making it more comfy to wear, but also this is what that lampswool does in keeping that sleeve standing out a little from the seam.  This is sort of an in-your-face look that I-can-ease-more-fabric-into-the-sleeve-head-than- you-can look!
  • Beautifully shaped across the shoulders and falls elegantly from the chest so that the skirt has few if any wrinkles.  OK Connery's version has some wrinkles however he's got his hands in his pocket like a very stud James Bond would do!

• Wool & Cotton Batting is what's used traditionally on the under collar of a finely tailored suit jacket.This isn't all that thick and adds not only substance but a nice body to the upper collar.
• And finally stay tape is one of the last on the list, and this is most likely used across the shoulders, as the shoulder is cut a bit on the bias which stretches a bit, and this is not a place that should stretch, and stay tape is used there to stay the shoulder.  The stay tape is also used on the roll like of the collar and the lapel, as this is also very much on the bias, and one thing you will notice in the Bond suits is that the roll line rolls beautifully because it's on the bias, but it is not wavy which a bias roll is wont to do, so the stay tape is there to allow the beautiful and flat roll of the lapel.
• And finally (drum roll maestro), the interfacing.  This is one of the most boring and what looks to be needless parts of the whole garment and it's used in practically every garment and why in the world do you need it anyway for goodness sakes!  Whew!!!!  Well, interfacing is one of those things that makes things crisp - duh!  But there's a reason certain places need to be crisp.  In the 1950s this mean any edge, which in the shirt would be the collar, cuff, the front button placket of a shirt and even the hem.  In the skirt, the waistband (or if no waist band the top part of a band less skirt), and hem.  In the jacket, the front lapel and collar and front that closed, definitely the hem (even today), and cuff and all that is the same for a coat as well.  Today the hem in the shirt and skirt has sort of bit the dust, but the other edges remain stiff and constructed.  This keeps the closures and other endings or edges very finished.

So you can see all of these notions have a very important function. And so why go through all this rigmarole.  Well, we're coming into a more finished look for fashion.  And it's important to revive these old rules and bring them back.  No more sloppy or too lose look at the edges of garments.  They are going to be finished and crisp.

Ruffles are a little different, but they still need their own sort of finishing. 

 

Whether they are circular, soft and laying softly, they need a hem or facing on them.

 

Or still circular, standing up high with interfacing (usually something like weight like organza) inserted into the middle of the fashion fabric and facing,









Or a more tailored traditionally gathered ruffle that lays flatly or even pleated for a flatter more classic look,

 



Each of these ruffles are finished, and completely tamed.  They aren't running away and they are not frayed or have anything close to a ripped-up, torn look.  It's this look that fashion is moving against, and this is why that notion list on the back of the pattern envelope is going to be more important than ever.

So check your look when you're finishing it.  A more refined finished look is going to be one of the features you can use on your clothes that will not only give you a more forward look (it will be fresh and new as well), but it will last a whole lot longer into the decade than anything you ravel or fray at the edges.    


 

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This new year will bring a new look and lots of new things added to the sewingartistry.com to the site.  In the meantime, things will be placed a little different, and if you can't find something that you liked or would like to find, just let me know.  It's easy as pie - you can simply respond to this email and I'll get it.  I get all these emails and I read all of them. so let me know if something seems awry for you or out of place. 

We're working on simplifying it and changing it to a more functional and easier place to get around. 
If there's something you liked from before and don't see, LMK. 
If there's something you've never seen, but would like, LMK. 
And of course if there's something that seems haywire or good, LMK!

You all will be the first to know when it's more settled, but for right now we're still moving the furniture around!
 

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