Pressing MattersMay 1, 2026 A few little housekeeping notes first.
Have had some reports of people not getting this email. A note to all of you: Unless I've had a subdural hematoma or the planet has been hit by an asteroid, I send out an email every Friday at 6 AM Central Time. I think I've missed 3 times since 2012 when I first started this, so I have a pretty good record. If you don't get one, email me. That means that your server is getting extra industrious at keeping out spam. And no one appreciates that filter more than me, who opens up my emails to 800 to 1,000 new emails a day. UGH! At the same time, I keep my list very curated, which means I'm constantly cleaning it out and keeping it healthy! So if you're not getting an email, then we need
to troubleshoot it!
Make sure that your email hasn't been automatically deposited into your "Spam," "Trash," or "Other" folder(s) and if it has then move it to your "Inbox" folder and make sure that "[email protected]" is in your address book, so that tells your server that I'm a legit address. Even better respond to me with "Hi!" and this will let it through to your inbox and out of your spam, trash or other folders.
And now that's done, back to sewing, and in this case pressing. Pressing is so
underrated and even when we think about equipment in our sewing studio. When we think about equipment in our sewing space, it's sewing machine, cutting equipment, cutting table, workspace (for pattern work, and maybe if we're lucky our iron comes way down on the list. In reality our iron should be the second most important item in our studio.
For years it's common practice that the presser is paid more on the garment making manufacturing floor than the seamstress.
For clarification here are some definitions:
- Seamstress: A person who operates a sewing machine
- Dressmaker: a person who makes/alters womens dresses
- Presser: a person who presses clothing either dry cleaners or on the garment manufacturing
Two things to notice here - there is someone who's in charge of pressing. If pressing weren't all that important, then they wouldn't even have that position, because, as we all know, clothing manufacturing has come down to the cheapest way to make clothes
possible. So if there's a position that's not needed, it's gone. Not only is pressing needed, but it's invaluable in selling the garment.
Second thing to notice is the difference between seamstress and dressmaker. Most of us are dressmakers/pressers, and would be paid a pretty penny on the manufacturing floor, mostly because the presser is also the one who decides if the garment goes back to the seamstress for repair, or if the garment can pass, then goes to be shipped
out by the manufacturer. It's also a bottle neck, which means if you have a bad (or slow) presser, it costs the manufacturer big bucks. If you're fast, experienced, you're golden. In this day and time, we would be more than the presser, we would be teaching classes to those who would be the seamstresses and pressers! Those two factors alone should alert you to how important the pressing is in the manufacturing of clothing. If it's that important to them, there must be something to it. Currently I'm in the process of doing one of those "couture" garments for a client. A few of my clients will allow me to "do my thing," and I get to reall shine. This is a lot like the other night when the First Lady stepped out in a totally couture gown.
This gown required many fittings and was draped on her or her body double. Often couture houses will make a mannequin of their client making it much easier for the client and preventing massive fittings. The draping on this gown required her exact
body measurements so that it falls correctly - which means it hangs straight from the draping. As Melania was once a model, she's very familiar with couture garments and how they feel.
In my endeavor for my client, this kind of gown requires massive pressing, and
difficult pressing. This can't be done with the mangel or professional press, because I would be pressing the drapes, as pleats and that's not what they are.
This is a photo of the press they use at Yale Cleaners in Tulsa. They have an Instagram account that is very illuminating and
the care they take in cleaning and restoring old gowns is really remarkable. If you're in the state of Oklahoma, they are the best cleaners these days to trust your heirloom garments to.
Just because it may be difficult, doesn't excuse for no pressing. Here's an example.
The difference here is slight, but it is the difference between a finished, polished look, and just an OK look. The pressed version, on the bottom (this is the same belt just photoed before and after), it makes you look very professional and makes your work
look finished and polished.
This is for an emergency client - she has unusual family situation - family issues. One thing I learn as a designer, is that EVERY family has issues (God knows mine does), and I don't judge. I just nod in agreement and work with what I have. So my client wants to look nice, not sure how formal or informal the wedding will be, and not sure how many photos or if any.
In cases like this, the best solution is to dress
up. If the event turns out to be more formal than what you're dressed, it can be a slight. If it's the other way around, you can always say, "I thought I would dress-up for your event." This never insults.
On my trip to Houston, I had a nice chat back and forth with the crew. We missed our slotted time of arrival at Hobby and so we had to wait at the end of the runway for 20 minutes to get another slotted time of arrival. So the crew was all buckled in
and nothing to do but chat. We got to talk about clothes (one of the top subjects of women), and they complimented me on my outfit, and I told them I got dressed-up to fly on Southwest, and they both were so grateful and impressed. That's the feeling when you get too dressed up so it's better to dress up than down for an event if you are ever in doubt.
My client started with the Oleg Cassini dress and we've refitted it for her. But this is a Catholic
wedding and the neckline is a little low for her, so we've decided to do a wrap in black silk gazaar from Vogue Fabrics from Chicago. I sampled this out and the second I put my hands on the gazaar I bought it, cause I have another client this fall who can use the same fabric.
As we started working with the gazaar it was easy
to see that it would keep it's shape and have a great flare, but my client wanted it more controlled and "fixed." And usually I'm against that, but in this case, it looks fabulous.
I don't like to show these garments before the client can wear them, so don't tell anyone, but this is so special, I wanted to share.
Her right arm will come through the two wrap endings on the right side, and the dress is a typical Jackie K. silhouette, and will look divine on her. This is also covers her enough for the Catholic service in the church.
But during the last
fitting, she's so in love with how this looks, that she's ready to wear it like this all night long. It totally makes the dress feel comfy with a more modest neckline.
This will most likely be a difficult event for my client, but for an hour or two, you can put up with just about anything. In the meantime she will enjoy wearing a really great outfit. The best news of all is that my client and her hubby will be going to his 40 year, high school reunion and they are both
excited about that and she can really shine in the same outfit.
I've created a hanger that I can also use to press with, but also to use for when she needs to hang it out of the way.
Even if this gets squashed a little it should have enough body to give the look she wanted - framing around the face and a nice, "lady-like" neckline that she can feel comfortable with.
Pressing this is a real chore and takes very special equipment.
Basically all I can really do is hang it and steam it while I'm holding it. The great thing about this fabric is it has more body that organza so it's not as likely to get folds in it while it's hanging. And with the hanger it can really be easy to "press" which would be more steaming than anything else. This is a little out of the norm from what I've been doing lately and it's really fun to get back into doing what I did for so many decades. I still got to refit a vintage dress, but we created something very special to make this dress a one-of-a-kind garment upcoming. I'll get a photo of her all
dressed up for the event! I just hope there won't be a food fight!!! Only joking ....sorta! 😉
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NOTE: There are some folks who can't get my email, or it's sporadic, or something is hinky. I will always respond to any of you who send a private message, whether it's about the topic of the week or something else. If you don't get anything
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please ensure I'm in your email Address Book and check your spam, junk, and trash folders. Some email clients get extra excited when they see emails coming into the Inbox that go to many other receivers. They automatically think it's trash or spam, and it never makes it to the Inbox. I must constantly check my spam and junk folders to ensure I'm getting the emails I subscribe to.
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Tracking a fashion trend isn't all that hard after seeing a few of them.
Living from Mid-Century Modern through Twiggy...
It's worth the time to look at these styles, particularly today as
there is a group of that wants to look....
This is the way fashion used to be -- pretty, flattering and I can't wait to make some of...
NOTE: There are some folks who can't get my email, or it's sporadic, or something is hinky. I will always respond to any of you who send a private message, whether it's about the topic of the week or something else. If you don't get anything
from me, it's probably because the [email protected] email is blocked, and even a private message can't get through. In that case, I'm on Instagram often, and you can always PM me at @sewingartistry.
As a precaution,
please ensure I'm in your email Address Book and check your spam, junk, and trash folders. Some email clients get extra excited when they see emails coming into the Inbox that go to many other receivers. They automatically think it's trash or spam, and it never makes it to the Inbox. I must constantly check my spam and junk folders to ensure I'm getting the emails I subscribe to.
To view in browser along with past emails, click here. We respect your email privacy. |
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