Finishing the Top for the Armani Pant

August 15, 2025

Every since I finished the Armani Pant (with the Tessa Pattern from StyleArc), I've been wanting to make an equally fabulous top to go with it.  And black was screaming at me.  

I have a jacket that works well with this pant, but I wanted something luxuriously soft and drapey for the pant too, unlike this structured jacket.  

Don't get me wrong, I like this jacket and it looks fine with these pants, I just have the memory of these wonderful doyennes of my youth wearing elegant clothes that draped perfectly on the body and screamed comfort - not baggy, but elegant.

I wanted something from the glamour and incredible design that I knew in the past.  The quiet quality, that was anything but quiet to me.  The minute you see it, you think, "Gee, that's not money - that's REAL money!"  These were sort of my inspiration. 

This is the look - a loose pant with a fitted but still loose top.  The top had shape, but it was subtle and it draped excellently.

Here's more like it.  The jackets of Armani were made with a delightfully light crepe, but it had substance to it.  It was made with heavier yarns, and closer together, but it was still light and draped beautifully.  The one on the left shows the drape, while the one on the right is an actual Armani.  The Besom pockets, the worked buttonholes and all the tailoring that went with it.  Armani excelled in tailoring from the old school, only with lighter than air fabrics.  It was a dream to wear and there wasn't anyone who didn't look good when fitted well.  

Here's where I started

OK - severe proportional problems.  And fortunately since I actually have made some of these types of clothing before, I realize that it may seem easy and not that difficult, but the problem with being "simple" is that it shows every error in every stitch if you're not careful.  So the first thing is to fix that proportion so that the length of the top is good.  

Doing this with my shape today is different than when I was a young 30 y/o.  So I'm going to have to experiment a little to get the length just right.  One thing for sure is that I did not like the black top that was above my crotch.

It's okaaaaaaaaaay, but only ok.  I have another pair of pants I can wear this top with, but I needed this to fall below the crotch for me to really feel comfy in it.  

Isn't it funny when you hit the right spot it immediately works.  This is something we all need to realize.  That we have a sweet spot for the hems of tops with leggings, with pants, with slim pants, even with skirts, but that if we're off a little, we know it.  We also know it when when we're on the mark.  

My sewing buddy and I are going out this weekend to celebrate our birthdays which hit between July and September.  I had the vision of wearing this top with pearls (nothing like the staple for quiet quality), and a nice jeweled bracelet (fake - Kenneth Lane, but oh so glorious looking).  But wait.....

Oooooomiiiigooooosh!  I have these white pants which I adore wearing in the summer time (and they are ponte that doesn't need to be lined, so they are amazingly cool).  But all I can say is WOW!!!

With my excellent little Chanel knock-off black-capped toe shoes, it's just about as elegant as it can be.  And yes, the print matches in front.

I'll still wear this with the Armani pants (unless I find a gorgeous black silk crepe de chine - I'd love to find a 4-ply black silk CDC), and then I'll make another top like this for the Armani pants.  

Again, I wanted to do the same placket on the sleeve that I had done in the black, because I had some large gorgeous buttons to put on that looked like I went to a fine dressmaker and got buttons that were custom-made for this fabric and top.  

These buttons are so perfect with the coloring in the top and the wider placket makes for a very stable place for the buttons to be sewn on AND to make a button hole.  I did do corded button holes in the front and it was just as I had thought - a nice crisp buttonhole that doesn't wobble or ripple and keeps the button right in place.  

So there are several takeaways here - 

1. Don't be afraid to try something new.  Yes, it will take a little longer, and the proportions may not always be right the first time, but it's worth the effort to try.  
2. Using the Golden Ratio or Divine Ratio is an excellent way to help you get started.  Remember, you can reverse it so the long side is on the bottom or top, it doesn't matter, and it's a great way to get in the neighborhood.  You may have to make tiny adjustments, like I did, about my crotch height.  But considering those, and using this tool, it at least gets you in the ballpark, and helps you get there faster.
3. One of the most flattering hem shapes is the shirttail hem.  That's where it's a little shorter on the sides than in front. The shirttail-shaped hem is comfortable, classic, and always shapes well around the hips or bottom!
4. I'm loving doing the classic dressy sleeve placket only wider.  It makes for a fantastic look that has a more finished look than the thinner version.  This is the version I linked to above, but make your selvedge piece about 3 " wide, and that gives you a finished overlap of about 1", which is very much how the classic housetop placket works.

See the overlap here - same on the dressy placket when you make it with a 3" wide piece.

Most of all have fun, and don't be afraid to venture outside the normal boundaries you're used to sewing in.  There is no telling what you'll find out there, that can bring on a variation in your flattering clothes.  Honestly, I thought my days of wearing woven pants were over.  But I've changed my mind, partly because of this magnificent fabric.  

Which brings up the last takeaway here - using elegant and great fabrics can make or break an outfit.  These pants would never have worked in a cheaper version of the fabric.  And although Joann's has closed, you would be very pleasantly surprised at what high-quality fabrics are out there.  Some of the best editors I've found in ferreting out those really fabulous fabrics are Emma One Sock, Gorgeous Fabrics, and March Tilton.  These store owners are fabulous editors and know the good stuff and have only the good stuff in their stores.  That's going to cost a little more, but remember that you will be wearing it for decades and by the time you  get it out to wear it for the 4th or 5th year, you will remember what a bargain it is to sew with really fine fabric.  The people who run these stores know their fabrics, sources, mills and what is good and what isn't.  And if you really want to treat yourself, Mendel Goldberg Fabrics in New York has some of the most elegant fabrics in the world - check out the End Cuts which are remarkably generous.  I did a pants suit for a client going to Dubai and she wanted it in white and I knew Alice at Goldberg's had some fabulous gabardines - the one she sent me had a bit of stretch in it, and my client was beyond elated!  I also like Vogue Fabrics Store sample catalogue where I can check the color of the fabric and actually feel it to see if it's what I want.  Sometimes I've bought strictly on color, because I could see it up close and check it with things I have in my wardrobe already.  

Have fun with this most of all.  Our sewing and creating should be fun and a most excellent way to spend our time - creating with an elegant fabric and elegant look for us to look our very best!

The SewingArtistry Resource Library is designed to contain information to not only make your sewing better, but to aid in you fitting and flattering your shape, size and style.  Check it out. 

Look for future classes coming in 2024
The Core Pattern Shirt, (one of my favorites for woven core pattern that you can make into a myriad of different garments), 
Basic Knit Top (core pattern class for knit basic tops, shells, tees, dresses, and tunics)
 

The Path of a Fashion Trend

Tracking a fashion trend isn't all that hard after seeing a few of them.  Living from Mid-Century Modern through Twiggy...

The Style of the Very Wealthy

It's worth the time to look at these styles, particularly today as there is a group of that wants to look....

WOW!

This is the way fashion used to be -- pretty, flattering and I can't wait to make some of...

NOTE:  There are some folks who can't get my email, or it's sporadic, or something is hinky.  I will always respond to any of you who send a private message, whether it's about the topic of the week or something else.  If you don't get anything from me, it's probably because the support@sewingartistry.com email is blocked, and even a private message can't get through.  In that case, I'm on Instagram often, and you can always PM me at @sewingartistry.  

As a precaution, please ensure I'm in your email Address Book and check your spam, junk, and trash folders. Some email clients get extra excited when they see emails coming into the Inbox that go to many other receivers. They automatically think it's trash or spam, and it never makes it to the Inbox.    I must constantly check my spam and junk folders to ensure I'm getting the emails I subscribe to.  

To view in browser along with past emails, click here.

We respect your email privacy.

Follow us!