Styles for Normal Figures

July 4th, 2025

Today is the US's Birthday, which is sparked mainly by firecrackers (and yes, that's an intentional pun), hamburgers & hot dogs grilling in the hot sun, sometimes at the beach, and a parade or two if you're lucky enough to have those in your town still.

Even though we're wearing light clothing, it should look nice on any figure type - at least that's my philosophy.  Today I also have a fitting with my lovely bride, who is wearing her grandmother's gown.  She's seen the pic in the family set of pictures and has always wanted to wear it.  Now her dream comes true, but even more, she had no idea it was going to look so fabulous, and neither did her mother.  (I designed and made the mother's deb dress, so there's great history here!)

The thought of taking grandmother's dress, who is a tiny creature, to fit the large girl's body is a huge task.  What's more, to bring it to life for the granddaughter the way it looked for the grandmother is a gigantic task, but these are the challenges I relish and can't wait to tackle.  I know I can do this, and I know how it's going to turn out, but the bride and the mom are usually ecstatic with joy!  That's the really fun part.  

The more difficult the project, the more it sings in your heart!  So it's important to remember that when we're fitting different shapes, sizes, and styles.  There's always a profile, silhouette, and look that will work with any figure, as evidenced by the proof.  
 

All of these women have figure problems but in these photos they looks spot on.  Everything that's right is working for them.  They (or their stylists most likely) have spent some time analyzing these figures and figuring out what's right and what's wrong - what to accentuate and what to hide, and they do it marvelously.  

Upper left - who would have thought a "fitted" top on this figure would work, and here's why:

• good undergarments - the bra is great here and allows a good fit under the bust to give the illusion of a waist
• The illusion of a waist - yeah, mentioned above, but this is what gives the whole look a great silhouette.  This shape really does have a thick waist, so when a figure is shaped like this, you nip in under the bust to give that waist illusion which is key.  Almost every figure has this, so it's a great alternate if your shape is thick through the waist
• Tapered arms, but fitted so that they aren't skin tight.  The same goes for the legs in that the pants are fitted but not tight or skin tight.  
• This shape is also thick through the hips and upper thigh, but thinner from the lower thigh down, so tapered pants with space showing between the legs means that there is a little length here.
• The light color on top where the shape of the whole garment is, and darker on bottom.  Even though it's rare that red is a "receding" color, it is here, cause white is the most projecting.  
• The outfit total looks cheery and fun and the whole shape flatters this figure.  Melissa McCartney actually looks like she's having fun and that the garment is a blast to wear.  This is the whole purpose.  

Upper right - formal silhouette for an Oscar-winner!

• Black recedes and always makes you look thinner.  That's the first thing I see, and it makes this figure fall back into the background, except for the sequinned jacket.  
• Nice, clear shoulders that signify where the garment is going to hang from.  Think of your hangers and how the ends of the hanger stretch out to fall flatly from the hanger without any wrinkles.  The same here - the garment starts off right by falling well from the shoulders.
• The lovely décolletage, which I would like to have seen a short string of pearls or a wowza drop on a necklace which would have brought more attention to the face, but can't have everything.
• The classic waist nip, when (if you look closely) there is no waist on this figure in reality.  But because the shoulders are so beautifully place (probably a pad or two to help with the shoulder structure), the nip at the waist, (a little higher than the hips), looks like this figure has a waist and shows it off.  
• The jacket length is proportionally excellent, as the hips are fairly straight; the jacket is long enough to cover any tummy or hip issues, but not so long as to look dumpy or frumpy.  The jacket length is just great.  
• The skirt, which reaches the floor, adds the much-needed length that brings this whole outfit together.
• Olivia Spencer looks comfortable and totally elegant and ready to take the stage in a totally flattering look. 

Lower Right again in black, but really elegantly formal in an asymmetrical abstract look, but classic and streamlined enough to look fabulous on her.  

• Even though this is an obvious full figure (like all these examples) the shaping here is perfect.  Her large bust, because she's all in black, doesn't look out of place or out of proportion.  
• The fur trimmed at top is a beautiful contrast to the fabric which looks to be a crepe or pearlized sheen, but the fur is dead or totally matte.  You wouldn't think of fur as being matte, but the contrast works here very well, and with the wearer's face bright and shiny, it frames the face and puts it on exhibit just perfectly.   

NOTE:  Any time you have an opportunity to show off the face, take it.  Whether that's ruffles around the collar or a contrasting color (preferably a projecting color), or another type of contrast (like the shiny vs the matte in this case), take the opportunity to show off the smile and face.  I've had many a client, and her only attribute was the smile and expression on her face.

• The upper waist nip, even though under the bust again, hides the fact that this figure has no waist, but when nipped under the bust, it looks as if there might be a waist. 
• It's hard to see in this photo, but the skirt does go all the way to the floor and falls gently, flowingly and straight, but when she moves, there's a slight slit in the dress on her left side, and it ads to the movement of the dress when she moves.  

NOTE:  Anytime you can make movement in your garment complete your task of showing off the best part of the body, it can be a fun way to give an excellent "sashay factor."  For a woman swishing down the runway, main aisle, or walking on the sidewalk, it's a beautiful feature of a garment, and make the lady feel extra feminine!

• This "looks" like a crepe and could possibly be a slightly stretchy crepe.  If so, this makes this an extremely comfortable dress.  On top of looking stellar in this garment, Queen Latifah looks like she might be one of the most comfortable people at the opening of her movie!

Lower Left is the classic block print in classic black and white.  You can not go wrong with this look and here you can see how smart it really is.  This is when she was modeling at the Givenchy show in Paris, and I do not know which year.  

• I lightened this up a little to check out the shoulders and other details, as I suspected there was some excellent fitting under that arm, and sure enough, I was right.  First, the shoulder is excellently placed.  As always, once the shoulder is in the right place, what falls below will be in a good starting place.  
•  But then the space under the arm is beautifully fitted.  The wrinkle that's there, is because this gal has her hand on her hip, and it would naturally wrinkle in that position.  
• The armhole is cut deeply here, giving this gal great movement, but also good line under the arm.  This "under the arm" area is essential for keeping the silhouette in place.  It doesn't have to be uncomfortable, and the fabric used to construct this dress may have a little stretch, allowing for even more comfort in the garment.
• The lines that fall from this dress (the seam line between the contrasting colors and the silhouette lines) are so beautifully constructed that they belie their importance.  The lines curve gently and fall straight.  Once the line hits the apex point (that point that sticks out the most), it gradually tapers inward.  This level of attention to detail is one of the key features that make this dress work.  Rebel Wilson was modeling for Givenchy for this show, and the smile on her face shows just how happy she feels in this dress, which is what it's all about. 

These examples show that having a normal figure doesn't mean you can't look good.  I confess that these people all have stylists, who look after their clients with great care.  Personally, if any one of these ladies (or their stylists) came to me to dress them, I would do it in a second.  The challenge and execution would be a dream, and these types of clients are the first to be grateful for fitting them and making them look so good.  

Hopefully, this walk-through of these garments and their design elements helps you understand that the effort you spend working to make your garment flattering is well worth it.   Proportion, line, silhouette, and almost drawing with your sewing machine, is what makes the difference in all of the garments. Not only will you look good, but you will also feel good, and I promise your attitude will change for the better when you wear a garment that makes you feel good.  Don't believe me - check the smiles on these ladies' faces

The SewingArtistry Resource Library is designed to contain information to not only make your sewing better, but to aid in you fitting and flattering your shape, size and style.  Check it out. 

Look for future classes coming in 2024
The Core Pattern Shirt, (one of my favorites for woven core pattern that you can make into a myriad of different garments), 
Basic Knit Top (core pattern class for knit basic tops, shells, tees, dresses, and tunics)
 

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