Dart Point vs Bust Point

February 28, 2024

Not to make a fine point (ha, ha - I know, bad joke), but there is a difference, and not only is it good to know, but it is beneficial when you start designing around this very important dart.  

The bust dart is one of the most essential fitting locations on a lady's body and an age identifier.  There is simply no other quicker way to look older and younger than with an incorrectly or correctly placed bust dart.  

And we mere normal people fall as much into that category as any other lady.  This  photo of an opera singer from Europe is a perfect example

To make this more dramatic, the color of the dress is almost exactly the same, but the fit and tailoring around her shoulders on the right is consummate - done by true tailoring professionals, where as the dress on the right looks like something off the rack, and you can tell the under garment isn't doing any of it's job supporting the wearer.  

The Royals seem to be particularly prone to being underwear challenged or at the very least their designers don't specify under garments that can flatter.  

It's very much a hit and miss effort with most of them, but when it's a hit, it looks great.  Now I understand that white can be an enemy to those who are working to find a flattering look for their figure, but (2nd left) in a dark color there's really no excuse, and this should have been a beautiful gown on Camilla, but it makes her look like she's a triangle with no shape.  And that white thing in the middle with ruffles should tell anyone with a thick waist and working "in public" a big NO!  To prove it the other three outfits on the right work - they look smashing on Camilla, and begs the question why she isn't using that designer or silhouette in all her clothing.  

To make my point, here is Camilla (left original) in a white gown.  Protocol requires royals to almost always where white, so it's going to be an issue for the rest of Camilla's life, but it doesn't have to be.  The view on the right simply has rested her bust a little higher, and suddenly there's much more shape and a younger look.  

So it not only is important but worth the effort to get that bust working in the right direction.  And it's worth the effort to fix it.  

Yeah - that expression shows just how funky my bust point was, but I fixed it - see above.  

So let's take a look at how I did this - cause it was so easy:

1. Mark your correct bust point on each side.
2. Release the dart at the side seam - this is the part that is less than 1" and easy to do - it's just the dart part that has to be released
3. Take out the dart
4. Take out the hem at the bottom of the front bust/waist/hip dart - only the hem, and if the dart doesn't go to the hem, no worries about the hem.
5. Take out the front bust/waist/hip dart, but do not press it out.  This will act as a guideline for the shape of your new dart.
6. Now fold that dart at the same markings on the side as before only fold it to point to the new bust point, but make the dart about 1½" to 2" away from the bust point.  Darts should NEVER be sewn to the bust point.
7. I took a measurement from the top of the front dart top to the edge of the placket and then measured from the bottom of the dart to the placket so that the dart would be straight up and down.   I wanted to move this dart to be straight down from my bust point, so that meant I wanted even measurement from the top of the dart to the bottom so the dart would be parallel to center front.
8. I pressed along that straight line to mark the fold line of the front dart, and then using the shape of the other dart, shaped in the waist all the way to the hem (in my case it needed to be taken in at the hem, but it might not in yours).  
9. Pressed the seams, and pressed out the front and side darts, sewed in the side seam and the hem (if needed), and all done.  

The turquoise lines are the new dart lines.  

Honestly this took about 30 minutes and that's cause I took it off to make a video which is always time-consuming and it is so worth it.  Adjusting a side bust dart, is always worth it, and you can see the huge difference this makes in the final result.  AND the fit is so good on the right that I do look about 5 lbs thinner.  That's exactly what a great fit does.

As far as the bra, I have my special, much newer bra and it's at the same height, so my bra is OK - so no bra shopping, yet!  But this is something to always monitor.  Once you get a little droopy, it begins to age you radically.  Keeping good support undergarments is not only great for your posture and holding your innards in the right place, but it makes you walk better and feel better.  

Don't ever hesitate to do this little alteration.  The results are dramatically positive and the time spent is miniscule compared to the results you will reap.

The SewingArtistry Resource Library is designed to contain information to not only make your sewing better, but to aid in you fitting and flattering your shape, size and style.  Check it out. 

Look for future classes coming in 2024
The Core Pattern Shirt, (one of my favorites for woven core pattern that you can make into a myriad of different garments), 
Basic Knit Top (core pattern class for knit basic tops, shells, tees, dresses, and tunics)
 

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