The Pants Delimma

November 15, 2024

Nothing is prettier or more elegant than the woven pant when it fits.  

Wait you say, where does all that wrinkling come from?  Is that allowed in properly fitting pants?  And what about that fit...it doesn't look very good?  And herein lies the problem.  This was the AI answer to "well-fitting pants."  And herein lies the problem.  Good grief, with this as a model, no wonder we're confused.

Breaking this down we have a lot to consider in a pair of pants:  Perception (IOW what to expect...what's the goal?), definitions - crotch, rise, 

• Perception One - Where are we wearing these pants, what will their use be in my wardrobe?
• Perception Two - what does RTW say?... runway?... models and pictures in magazines of people in leadership or authoritarian positions?
• Perception Three - How do I want to project myself?... what is the look I want to present to my co-workers, boss, friends.

It's essential to be clear about what you want because without that, you'll be wandering all over trying to figure out what's wrong when you're not even sure what's right.  We all need a road map to get to the place we're going, but if we don't know where we're going, it defeats the purpose of even being on the road!  

Here are some ideas:

• What are you going to use them for?  Formal, office, casual, comfort (as in flying across the ocean or the country in a pair of pants, you want comfort!).  The more specific you are about this, your pants will turn out better.
• Woven is woven, and stretch is stretch - what kind of fabric do you want?  Woven pants will give you a specific look, while stretch pants will give you an entirely different look.  Don't try to get a stretchy look with a woven fabric and vice versa.  That's instant neuroses!  It would take a whole newsletter to go through all this in detail, but briefly, stretch pants can be a little closer to the body, whereas woven pants can not, and if they are, they will look too tight (like the AI photo above).  So, if you're looking to make a close-fitting pant, ditch the woven and go for the stretch.  If you want a pair of tailored pants that are fuller to allow you ease, go for the woven.  My recommendation:  I like stretch pants simply for sitting.  And I'm not alone.  My stretch pant pattern fills faster than any other local class because it looks tailored but acts like a stretch pant.  It's also great for my professional students who want to look sharp and sleek when making a business presentation or in court pleading a case.  They know they won't look too tight simultaneously, and they won't be splitting apart on the job.  If you're looking for something more formal, velvet or a soft silk large-legged pant, then a woven is definitely what you want.  However, nowadays, a stretch panné velvet can have just as effective a formal look as a classic velvet dress pant.  
• You know your comfort level better than anyone but be clear about the comfort level you want in your pants.  Don't expect a woven pant to act like a stretch pant.  Woven requires ease - period!  That means it may look baggy when it's really not.  Which one of these pants looks like a better fit?  Check out the drape if you're large and think your pants are baggy.  You can't have a good fit if you don't have ease in those woven pants.  Woven pants won't fit like stretch pants, and to expect them to fit the same is an instant recipe for disaster.  

• Know your style - 
  • Boot Cut - tapered at the knee just a bit 
  • Yoga Cut - a little more exaggerated tapering than the boot cut
  • Thin Leg - slight tapering from the hip line to the hemline, with the hem being as slight as possible to cover the shoe/foot area without breaking.  I don't like a break in this kind of pants.  
  • Classic cut - this tapered leg can have a break.  It's a little wider at the hem than the fully tapered leg.
  • Wide-leg pants are challenging to wear, and unless you have very tiny hips and a straight-up-and-down figure, these look sloppy and add 10 pounds to your figure.  

When I search for wide-leg pants, this is what I get. Almost every model is standing with her legs apart so that you can see through the center part of the leg. This will make the pants look like a boot cut and trim you down.  But if you're standing straight...

If you don't stand with your legs apart or at least with a knee bent to show the space between your legs, you'll end up with a really frumpy look, and with this wide-legged pant, that's a real risk.  

Part of knowing your style means that you have realistic expectations.  We need the fit at the waist for pear and hourglass shapes, but we must be cautious of our proportions.

Pear Shape
Problem:  Most of the bulk is around the hip.
Solution: Keep this problem area fitted and close to the body (not tight) with a straight line from the hips, tummy, and fanny to the hem. Yes, a boot cut will break that rule, but the knee-level nip needs to be slight and not dramatic.

Hourglass Shape

Problem: The figure is plagued by a waist that is out of proportion to the rest of the body—it's too small.
Solution: A waist slightly above or below the waist, with the illusion that the waist is more proportionate to the hips and top, works well.  Don't fit the waist tightly.  If you do, then make sure the top drapes over the waist are purposely designed to give the illusion of a larger waist.

Apple Shape

Problem: All the bulk is on top, and the waist is usually non-existent or larger than the hips.
Solution: Keep the area from the bust to the waist clean and shaped to the body, not tight.  You can use the indent under the bust to give the illusion of a waist shape.

Rectangle Shape
Problem:  No shape - straight up and down.
Solution: Use that straight shape to your advantage, making the legs look extra long.  If you feel you can get away with it, add a little padding to the shoulders and a little fullness below the waist (again using the Apple technique above to use the under-bust indentation as an illusion of a waist) to give the hint of shape at the waist.

Each figure type has its problems, but having a clear picture of what your shape is  will make your pants expectations more realistic and, therefore, a better outcome.

So now you should have a good idea about what to expect from your pants - 

• Use
• Expectation - Woven vs Stretch
• Your style and what you can and can't do in pants.

To make this a little easier, 

To make this a little easier here's a good glossary to start with.  And here's what that looks like for a quick reference (the download is higher resolution so easier to read).

Each definition has a specific purpose and explanation, but you need to know these definitions to have a clear picture and explanation of what I'm describing. 

Believe it or not, we've already discussed a lot about how to prevent mistakes in your pants. Simply by having realistic expectations (that woven pants won't fit as tightly or skim as body-skimming as stretch pants is a huge realization), you can start on your trek toward a great pant pattern.  

From my pear point of view, I simply can not wear palazzo pants. My tiny waist, large hips, and short height won't allow me enough room to make them work.  Additionally, nothing in my lifestyle calls for these types of pants - either for something formal or something to lounge around in.   I'm not a lounger.  I'm working in my yard, fixing a project, taking a hem on the floor, and hiking with Walt.  The thought of having a bunch of fabric around my legs seems cumbersome and bulky for how I live.  I don't have a palazzo/wide-leg pant pattern, nor will I.  I do have a significantly modified and shaped straight leg pattern, but nothing fuller for me.  

I've nipped this pant in at the knee just a little, enough that I can get away with wearing them successfully.  I also have jackets and tops that go with this that have good balance on top (light shoulder pads) and a clear waist that gives shape to the whole silhouette.  

It is vital to be clear about what you expect from a pair of pants.  When I see what's available on the internet for pants, it breaks my heart because I know most of them will never look like the photo when worn in real life.  Legs are artificially extended, hips are unrealistically modified, and clips and pins are added on the side that is not facing the camera -- all of which create an unrealistic and fantastical image of what is reality. 

Expecting to look like this

(These legs have been artificially lengthened)
or this:

These photos have been so altered that it's evident to me that any expectation like this for a model walking down the runway is out of the question.  Perpetuating this as a plausible look for anyone should be classified as false advertising, at the least.  

As I was perusing the internet looking for any sort of advice on this, I found these interesting comments on this site.  

• Creases or Smiling across the crotch of the pants - the fit is too tight
• Anything so tight you have a pantyline - THANK HEAVENS, we are finally addressing this.  Yes, I don't like panty lines, but NO, you shouldn't have clothes that tight, and that's the solution for the panty line, not thongs (Thankyouverymuchladiesandgentlemen!!!!!!)
• Any waistband that unintentionally hangs too far below or above the belly.  Well, maybe above-the-waist is OK unless it's an obvious misfit.  I love high-waisted pants now.  But definitely, anything below is a wardrobe disaster waiting to happen.
• Any crotch that hangs too low or too high.  
• Thigh/legs - if you can't pinch an inch out of each leg and the hips, it's too tight.  This is a golden rule for wovens.  You must have that ease to sit - period!

This "Expectations of Your Pants" newsletter was a little longer than I intended.  I don't like doing Part 2s, but they exist for a reason, and this subject is one of them. Next week, I'll discuss the nuts and bolts of solving universal fitting problems with your pants.

For now, think seriously about what pants work for your shape, lifestyle, and comfort level.  You do not have to have every kind of pant in your closet for a proper wardrobe!  Remember, we are working on your closet having the most favorite items so that when you open the doors to choose what to wear, it will be filled with only the most excellent choices.  

Think about what you need, what you've had in the past that worked well for you, and what is comfortable and makes you feel excellent.  There is nothing wrong with doing this look repeatedly so that you're not bothered with having to cull through choices that don't work.  Get rid of that confusion and get on with your life.  

The SewingArtistry Resource Library is designed to contain information to not only make your sewing better, but to aid in you fitting and flattering your shape, size and style.  Check it out. 

Look for future classes coming in 2024
The Core Pattern Shirt, (one of my favorites for woven core pattern that you can make into a myriad of different garments), 
Basic Knit Top (core pattern class for knit basic tops, shells, tees, dresses, and tunics)
 

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