Update on Two Topics

November 3, 2023

Here's some updates that have been in the making for a couple of weeks.  

FIRST is the black jacket that had the "mistake" in the length of the facing and the front.  The truth is that had we taken the whole thing apart, we could have made the facing fit the front.  But the remarkable thing about knits is that they are forgiving, and this was the perfect example of that.  You can see that here in a former newsletter.  
 

As you can see the front is looking fabulous.  This is the part we redid a couple of weeks ago.  She doesn't have the buttons on yet, but that's all she lacks in having this done.  She's waiting for just the right time to wear the jacket the first time.  

How many times do we do that?  Waiting for the most special occasion, when the truth is that it's all special.  And that's especially true of a black jacket that goes with everything, and this time of year, when black jackets are a complete mainstay of your wardrobe. 

I've learned that as soon as I finish a garment - that's the perfect time to wear it, and I have a distinct habit of wearing usually two or three days in a row before I retire it's "premier" wearing!  

ON another subject.  I've been working with a bit different line and style these days, as I discovered a fabulous new cut on a new pattern.  This is what I discussed last week, and have been plotting out some new ensembles with these new pants.  

This new cut has the same hollowed out area in the inseam (actually it's in the side seam too, it just shows up in the inseam), and it requires a bit different top for this newer pattern cut.  

Here's the great pant, and in the video (in last week's email), I talk about what's good and bad about this top.  So what I needed to do was develop a better line for the top.  

And holy smokes - it works.  Look at this top (this is a jacket from about 5 years ago, with the cuff in the wrong place and I wanted to turn it around.  I was looking for something quick to do to sew one day, and thought - why not this.  I knew what I wanted and what I could do, and knew how to do it.  It was probably so easy that I just thought, I could do this any old time, and now seemed to be the right time.  The WOW!  It works so totally cool with these pants and this new cut, I'm in love.  

But let's step back a minute.  Here's my normal silhouette that's been my mainstay for ages - well almost eight years now.  

Yes, it's from an Instagram post, and there's so much going on here.  These were a pair of boots I bought at a live auction at a really great price.  They are my "Reba"  boots as I've been wanting some cowgirl boots for ages.  

But back to our original subject.  The silhouette here is one that's worked for me for a long time.  My shoulders are about a size 10, (now these are the old sizes - in today's RTW sizes that would probably be a 4 🙄 ), my waist is about a size 8 and my hips are about a size 14.  So having a clearly delineated shoulder line, at least a nip in at the waist, but not all the way to the waist, because that will only make my hips look larger, and the flowy skirt-type drape over the hips, in a shorter/tunic-type length, works magically on my short body.  It makes my legs look longer than they are.  My hips are in proportion to the rest of my body and my figure looks flattering.

How in the world am I going to make a transformation from this to a silhouette that will still work for me and be flattering, but is not this silhouette?    The first step is to draw something out.  And my favorite way to do this is with a croquis.  

A croquis is a silhouette of my body shape so that I can work out the balance and proportions that flatter my figure.  That is a nice, but not too tight waistline, because my waist is too small and makes my hips look abnormally large.  It's also to show off the length of my legs.  And finally, a good shoulder line to make up for my shrinking height - yes, as if I wasn't short enough already, age has taken a toll and my height has lost about 1".  Yikes!

Here's my drawing.

This doesn't have to be fancy, and it doesn't have to have too many lines.  I did an outline of the original outfit with the turtleneck that has problems on the left and then traced over the left model with the version on the right with all the typical corrections I have to make to my silhouette.  Those typical corrections are, 1. raised waist, 2. strong shoulders, 3. top length at least to my stomach if not a little lower.  And look at the difference.  I'm already in love with the top.  And BTW, this top will be a nice ponte so that it will stretch.

Now these corrections are typical of a pear shape, although a pear shape wouldn't have to worry so much about the waist, just a raised waistline will do the trick for this shape.  

An hourglass wouldn't so much have the length issue, but that shape must have a modified waist, something that looks a tad larger so as not to be so out of proportion to the hip and the shoulder.  

And, of course, the rectangle and the apple would have completely different issues.  

The rectangle would need a much more defined waist, and the way you do that is you nip in below the bust, giving the illusion of a waistline - just enough to make it believable.  

On the apple, this pant is actually a piece of cake for you.  My only recommendation is to wear a dark top with it, and boom, you're there.  Don't make your top so tight, and be careful of your waist like the rectangle, and it will be a dream silhouette.  

I love doing this, and further excited to have a new "look."  This was how I felt when I was learning to sew, and I couldn't wait for the latest fashions to come out each year so that I could learn from these master designers some new technique or flattering line or cut that would make a woman look well-kept and very put together.  

One of the things I hope is coming as a result of this quiet quality trend is that we all begin to put a little more interest and care into the way we present ourselves -- our hair is combed, our clothes are not mussed or sloppy, our look is somewhat coordinated with color, print, style, and even a tidy component would be part of the look.  With just a little care, no matter what age or phase of life, you can present yourself as cultivated, competent, and cool!

And I'll have some more updates on this new silhouette.  

The SewingArtistry Resource Library is designed to contain information to not only make your sewing better, but to aid in you fitting and flattering your shape, size and style.  Check it out. 

Look for future classes coming in 2024
The Core Pattern Shirt, (one of my favorites for woven core pattern that you can make into a myriad of different garments), 
Basic Knit Top (core pattern class for knit basic tops, shells, tees, dresses, and tunics)
 

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