Idea Resources

September 8, 2023

Well, this could be longer than the Bible, but I promise - really - not to make it that long.  I've been watching a lot of the bespoke tailoring reels on Instagram and the difference in the fitting is remarkable.  

For years, I've known that there's a difference in the English cut and the Italian cut, especially when Armani was at his height.  The Italian cut was all about a snug fit, while the English cut was a more gentlemanly - even portly cut.  And today I still prefer that English cut.  
 

These two jackets are considered the more closer fit - the Italian cut, but I don't like them.  For one thing they have an artificial nip at the waist that comes with pulls and wrinkles that really shouldn't be there.  

So I wish this was a better fit - again the pull at the waist, and because of that giveaway, it's probably MTM (made to measure) but it's not bespoke.  However it does have the ticking on the edge of the lapel and collar, which is normally a sign of bespoke work.  It's just that the shaping around the chest is not right.  And I happen to know that there are machines that make that ticking on the lapel look like it's hand done, but it's not.  

This one Instagram account is filled with so much valuable information like this quote from a video:

When you say Bespoke, you have to narrow it down to a garment that is made for someone.¹  How do you identify it?  It takes a bit of a trained eye.  But after a while I can tell just in a glance literally within seconds.²  When you have on a RTW suit or jacket, it might fit well, in the sense it might fit your shoulders well or even made to measure for that matter (MTM is not Bespoke³), but certain areas are going to give you away, because these are standard blocks⁴ and it’s just not going to fit perfectly.  So it might fit in the shoulders, but the fit in the waist or the placement of the buttons, or the length of the jacket, or the overall balance and proportion⁵ of the suit, there are a few telltale signs.  When you see a bespoke suit on someone it just looks right.⁶

There's so much here, let's unpack this a little:
¹For "someone" is an elegant British way of saying for a particular person.

²I'm sure you're thinking, that "trained eye" isn't your trained eye.  And I would make the very strong argument that your eye is trained way more than you think.  The minute you start setting a sleeve in, sewing that button hole on the front of a jacket, putting a finishing edge or piping on a collar or neckline - all of which adds incredible detail to a garment, even when you feel you can't do it perfectly or at least satisfactorily, you are doing so much better than you think, and above all you have an eye for what is right and what isn't.  My bet is that after you've put that piping in that neckline and then see it in RTW, you will be shocked at how well-done yours is.  That's the eye that he speaks of.  It's the eye of knowledge and experience because you've done it!

³Made to Measure (MTM) is another RTW, ready to wear, marketing device to make you think that you are getting Bespoke, which is actually made to your body's shape, size, and style.  Bespoke is the cat's meow, la crème de la crème (the best of the best) in men's clothing.  Same as women's clothing is haute couture, men's clothing is Bespoke.

⁴standard blocks are like the standard pattern sizes that we get right out of the envelope.  These are based upon standard model sizes.  Proff (the speaker's name) refers to these as a place to start in Bespoke, however in RTW or MTM, that is as good as it gets.  When you go into the store to get a suit, you try on the best one.  I may be too long, and may not fit in the waist, but looks OK in the shoulders, this is what Proff is talking about here - it will show that no one is a standard block.  

⁵I love that Proff includes balance and proportion here as well as the hem length, button placement and other more sewn technical points.  Balance and Proportion to me in a garment, are just as important as the placement of the shoulders, the hem length and other elements of the garment.  

⁶And sometimes that's the very problem with well-fitted and well-made clothing - there's nothing wrong with it, so we automatically assume that the model or wearer just fits into one of those standard sizes perfectly, even though we know that isn't true.  The purpose is not so much to make a waist where there is no waist or to make a bust where there is no bust.  That's impossible.  The purpose is to make the illusion of a bust, make an illusion of a waist without having to wear a corset or 3 sets of Spanx - YIKES!

For me it's easy to fall in love with this sort of talk and then I look at Proff's clothes and they scream Bespoke.  Here's the part (hopefully - if I copied the link right) where he stands up and talks about the fit of his suit as he's standing up.  

Here's some more beautiful clothes and look at the fit, drape and hang of all of his clothes.  Even though he has a perfect figure, this isn't about clothes fitting tighter than his skin, it's about the hang, how they curve on his body.  This is exactly the way I love to fit my clients and students.  I love to see the drape and the hang flatter your bodies and make you look and feel special.  Clothes can do that and for too long particularly women feel like they can't look that good unless they are the size of a starving rock singer.

First of all, you can't help but have fun and play around a little in clothing that feels so good.  But of course I'm looking at the hang on those pant legs.  It's absolutely dreamy.  All of his pants have a high rise, and with that they are pleated and very elegant, but as you can see (especially later) they aren't fattening to his figure.

Here's some more traditional wear, and again look at the drape on these pants - that perfectly hanging front pant pleat is so elegant.  It's full, comfortable, but it's not making him look fat or plump.  It's because the hang is so great.  

And who wouldn't love to show off a plaid jacket like this.  It's balanced beautifully, with the plaid across the chest, matching on the sleeve.  On this one you can see beautifully how there is a slight indent above the waist.  He wears all his pants with high rise trousers that are held up by suspenders, so the indent in the jacket is right where his trouser waist is.  

And I just couldn't resist this close up of the hand ticked work on the edge of the front lapel and collar.  This is the true sigh of a beautifully made Bespoke jacket.  I've seen this on MTM, but it's done by machine and you can tell.  When it's done by hand there is a faint tick on the other side, but hardly noticeable.  

These fun pictures come from @askokeyig (which I can't seem to attach the link, but this is the link on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/askokeyig/ )on Instagram, and it's just fun to watch him play and move around in his clothes.  Even his discussions on the making of fine clothing is so inspiring and empowering.  

The SewingArtistry Resource Library is designed to contain information to not only make your sewing better, but to aid in you fitting and flattering your shape, size and style.  Check it out. 

The Ponte Jacket Class has been rescheduled.  We had so many who wanted to take it but couldn't get here for one reason or another so it didn't work out.  We've rescheduled it for September, when we are more interest in jackets, and particularly something that will make us look professional and responsible -- because there are times when we need that look.  You can click here to get more information for the class on September 20, 21, and 22.  If you need any information about places to stay or other accommodations, simply respond to this email and I will get back to you.  I love my city and love showing it off!

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