Sewing Percentages

August 25, 2023

It's the dog days of August here in the Southern Plains and the temperature is stretching into the hot region for way too long.  Hard to think of anything except the coming fall when it's the best time of all - Indian Summer. 

In the meantime, not to over stretch a point, some of my private students have talked about the stretch percentage.  It makes a huge difference in your garment and sometimes it's a make or break decision.  This isn't to scare you - it's to inform you so that you become a better editor of your knits for your projects.  

This is a post from a couple of years, ago, but I couldn't have said it better...but it bears repeating.  This comes with a stretch percentage chart, that makes this process so much easier.  Also don't get too technical on this.  It's meant as a guide.  What you want to prevent is using a stable knit (in the 20% to 35% range) on a jersey knit pattern (in the 40% to 60% range) or worse on an activewear pattern (in the 60% to anything else which can be 200% or even more).  This is why it's important to know the range of your pattern and the range of your fabric.  

From a couple of years ago:  

One of the fun things to do in sewing my own clothes is to mix things up - make something formal out of a normally casual fabric, make something casual out of a normally formal fabric, and then to mix up techniques.  Using what would be normally very high tailoring techniques, but use it on a fabric that you wouldn't normally think of - like double knit or ponte.  So how would that look.

Well, I've done that before and tackling it again, because the result is so spectacular.   Taking the best part of a ponte, neoprene, double knit or scuba knit (all of these are stable knits meaning that they don't have a high percentage of stretch.

So let's talk a little about the percentage stretch.  It's important here.  Pontes like double knits, neoprene and scuba knits are stable knits.  They don't stretch very much.  But how much is "not very much?"  That's the big question, and there's a helpful answer to that, which is easy to find out for any knit you are working with.  Not only that but the stretch percentage, can tell you what garment your knit fabric will be best made in.

Computing the stretch percentage is easy.  Start with 4 inches on the widthwise grain of the fabric.  Stretch the fabric out to where it stops.  Take that measurement and minus the 4.  With the measurement left, divide that by 4 and you will get the percentage stretch.  For example 4" of fabric that stretches all out to 5" is 25% stretch (5 - 4 = 1.  1 ÷ 4 = .25 or 25%).  Another example is 4" of fabric stretches to 10" and yes it can stretch that much.  This would be  150% (10 - 4 = 6.  6 ÷ 4 = 1.5 or 150%).

Most pattern companies divide stretch knit percentages into three categories:  Stable, Jersey and Activewear.  It helps to know what the math is on this, so that when you get ready to make a garment you are using the correct percentage for the stretch of the fabric.

• Stable Knits:
  Double Knit, Ponte, Ponte de Roma, Scuba Knit, and Neoprene.
  The stretch percentage here is from 20% to 35%.  This isn't much stretch but it's enough that makes garments very comfortable, and because it's such a "stable" knit, it can be sculpted and tailored.
• Jersey Knits:
  These knits are in the medium stretch range and can be used mostly for tops.  The thinner and stretchier versions can be used for draping as in waterfall fronts.  The thicker versions can make very nice thin pants - not leggings, but thin pants.  They look very nice and hang well, but stretch nicely when you are sitting or bending your knees.  This group is the 40% to 75% stretch.
• Activewear Knits:
  This group is the stretchiness of all knits.  They often contain the content stretch fabrics like Elastane, Lycra or Spandex.  These are rubber stretch - like a rubber band.  This group has stretch from 80% to whatever - sometimes I've seen these stretch into 300%.  This group really stretches and that's why it's perfect for turtlenecks and leggings that require high stretch percentages.

Types of Knits:
The two types are mechanical and content.

Mechanical Stretch
The mechanical stretch is where the fabric is woven to stretch.  So how can that be?  Like this:

The SewingArtistry Resource Library is designed to contain information to not only make your sewing better, but to aid in you fitting and flattering your shape, size and style.  Check it out. 

The Ponte Jacket Class has been rescheduled.  We had so many who wanted to take it but couldn't get here for one reason or another so it didn't work out.  We've rescheduled it for September, when we are more interest in jackets, and particularly something that will make us look professional and responsible -- because there are times when we need that look.  You can click here to get more information for the class on September 20, 21, and 22.  If you need any information about places to stay or other accommodations, simply respond to this email and I will get back to you.  I love my city and love showing it off!

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