Good Notions

August 11, 2023

Good notions as well as good fabrics can really make or break an outfit and using good notions and good fabrics can be even easier to work with, especially when you're working in a pattern, or fabric you're not used to.  

One of the grand things about having and using that core pattern is that when you do vary it, you know what you are getting into with the pattern, because you know where you're going with your variation.  You most likely know the fabric you're working with, and the notions, so while you're experimenting with your core pattern the very best thing you can do for yourself (since your core pattern is going to be the variable), is to use the best fabric and best notions you can.  

We all know what good fabric is, but sometimes, there's some skimping on the notions that will really show.  Here's a classic example of what happens with a fabulous fabric, a great pattern, but sub-standard notions. 

This is enough to make your heart break.  Beautiful mid-weight linen - really 100% linen, with excellent pattern and great techniques, except the interfacing was a pellon bondable interfacing which not only doesn't bond well, but when washed actually bubbled up.  

The reasoning here is that notions most likely don't show and who's going to know anyway.  The problem is that you've spent your most valuable resource (yes, your time is more valuable resource than money), on something that is now sub-par by trying to save on interfacing.  This is the reason to stop and think seriously about using good notions with good fabric.  Much in the same way that on the commercial manufacturing floor and presser can save a poor seamstresses work, good notions can save a garment from looking like trash.  

So what makes up good notions?

Notions usually fall into several categories:  Thread, buttons, snaps, zippers, interfacing, backing, stay tapes, and anything else that you will use that will be permanently attached to the garment.  Pins, scissors, measuring tape snippers, hand needles, and those sorts of things are more considered tools and would fall into the same category as your sewing machine and your iron.  
 

Here are some good ideas about what good notions look like and using some qualifications to help you choose good notions.  

• Interfacing - This is probably the most important notion you can use.  After your fabric, this is the notions that will show the most.
  
  The whole idea behind interfacing is to give a crisp finish to the edge, so it's almost always on the edge of a garment - sleeve hem, cuff, neckline, front opening, back opening (except for zipper), and even for hems (see below).  So you want this area to look crisp and finished, and especially when you are using a beautiful fabric.  My go-to interfacing is always silk organza.  I keep a bolt of it here all the time.  For light fabrics, one layer;  for medium weight fabrics, two layers, for jackets or really tailored items, four layers.  And when I have that jacket idea only the fabric is a little too limber, one layer backing will do the trick beautifully.  No matter what the weight, it's very difficult to go wrong with silk organza.  
  
  There's one place where it doesn't work, and that's in the tailored bespoke jacket.  Bespoke means that the jacket is couture, and a lot of hand-work goes into the jacket.  When you are tailoring a jacket with pad-stitching and working with roll lines, there's nothing better than horse-hair canvas.  You can actually use canvas that has horse-hair in it but it's just as effective as the less-expensive brand, and still does the same thing (5 yards is a little cheaper per yard than the 2 yards).
  
  Then there are times when you simply need a bondable interfacing, and if you have to do that, use a woven, iron-on interfacing and be prepared to iron your garment a lot out of the laundry, cause I've never seen an iron-on stick well after having been through the laundry.   One technique that I've been known to use especially with either a new bolt or something I haven't used before, I'll cut the interfacing out and then place it like I'm going to bond it, then hover the iron very close and steam it massively and check to see if it moves - like shrinking up.  If it does, then I'll steam every piece so that the iron-on side is close to the fabric.  The iron-on won't quite bond, but almost and I can pull it away, reposition it and then bond it knowing that the shrink has all been taken out of it.  This is about the best way to rid an iron-on of shrink without actually bonding it onto the fabric and then having it shrink - YIKES!!!
  
  It's true that the interfacing doesn't show, at least not so you can see it straight-on with your eye.  But it really does show and especially when your interfacing balls up, shrinks or otherwise messes up either while you're making the garment or on the first wash.  So not shrinking on the pocket book for the interfacing is very wise.  

• Closures - Although interfacing is important, how you close a garment ads that extra pizazz that makes your garment special.  As a matter of act, closures, can make your garment look couture, simply by using good quality items.  
  • Buttons - believe it or not, your buttons, and these may be some from a Big-Box store to a boutique shop, can tell others that you definitely didn't buy this garment.  Manufacturers really work hard to put on buttons that are just barely adequate, so any purchased button is going to be better and most often will upgrade a garment.  
  • Zippers - same as buttons, and especially when exposed, they can make a garment sing, and in fact work as a jewelry- type accent.  But even when they aren't seen, as in a flap or center seam zipper, they can be a statement in the technique and execution of a garment.  If the zipper is poor quality and insists upon curling, or wobbling around, then no amount of good technique will cure a poorly made zipper.
  • Snaps - you can actually do a lot with snaps and again, it only takes a little looking around on the internet to find some really interesting looking snaps that can add a lot of pizazz to your garment.
  • Elastic - what may seem like another hum-drum notion, can be a perfect savior for a comfortable yet fitted look.  Elastic doesn't have to go all the way around the waist, and when you're wearing that tucked-in look in front, keep it tailored and flat, and keep the elastic in back and you have the best of both worlds.  
  • Other Closures - 
    • Velcro, even though you may not think about it, Velcro in the right place can make a blouse much more comfortable.  You will need something more secure like hooks or snaps, but in between where there might be a gap, and small dot 
    • Ties - fabric, ribbon, piping, tubing can all make coordinating closures to jackets and tops.
    • Belting is something we don't think about, but you can use it to make a belt or waist of anything.  

• Thread - So here's the big thing to remember about thread - it's polyester for a reason.  Yes, it's more breakable than cotton thread, but you want that.  Think of it this way.  If a seam has stress on it enough that either the fabric is going to rip or the thread is going to break, you always want the thread to break first.  And in my many years of debutante and wedding gowns, that had to be tighter than tight, I never had a zipper break out or tear out every -- even some of those that were hand sewn in.    
  
  But thread can also be a fashion statement, in the right color or as a contrast.  Even using twin needles with two different colors can be a very interesting decorating element. 
   
• Stay tapes that keep an area from stretching or moving.  This is essential across the shoulder, where no matter what knit top (save a raglan sleeve), it should never stretch.  And sometimes you have to add it across the back of the neck so that the whole shoulder line is stayed and won't stretch or drag down on the shoulder.  Those Sewkeyse knit tapes (in white, black and ivory) that are divine for your knitted tops and shirts when you want it flowy but you don't want it rippling.  
• Weights, Hem tape, and even interfacing in the hem is can make an outfit really sign.
  • Weights - usually this doesn't take much.  Chanel's solution for this was a beautiful gold or silver chain at the hem to make sure that the jacket laid close to the body.  If you jacket or top hem seems fly-away and needs to be closer to the body, this is the best solution. 
  • Hem tape can make a very ho-hum hem look absolutely excellent.  It can also take a really short hem (like sometimes up to ¼" wide) and add seam tape and you have a nice hem with a beautiful finish.  
  • Jackets used to come with interfacing cut on the bias in all the hems.  They don't so much anymore, however I'm not so sure that 

After a while you won't need so many different types of notions, cause you will know the ones that work for you, and those are the ones that you've used again and again and they work for your garments.  

The SewingArtistry Resource Library is designed to contain information to not only make your sewing better, but to aid in you fitting and flattering your shape, size and style.  Check it out. 

The Ponte Jacket Class has been rescheduled.  We had so many who wanted to take it but couldn't get here for one reason or another so it didn't work out.  We've rescheduled it for September, when we are more interest in jackets, and particularly something that will make us look professional and responsible -- because there are times when we need that look.  You can click here to get more information for the class on September 20, 21, and 22.  If you need any information about places to stay or other accommodations, simply respond to this email and I will get back to you.  I love my city and love showing it off!

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