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June 16, 2023
Manipulating fabric to do things that otherwise wouldn't be possible or even thinkable, is one of my favorite things to do.Â
Like making collars with "woven" techniques to put on my knit bodices of my garments; like making puckers where you wouldn't normally think they should be; like making tucks and weaving sashes and bow ties in the middle of a garment.Â
This sort of thing is "magic" to me and it's very intriguing.
This is why this Japanese Pattern Magic book was such a draw to me.Â
And what makes this such a treasure to do. This has everything that can really add to a wardrobe, and even the boxiness of it can be cured (shoulders up on the shoulder, and all those seams are perfect for fitting bust, waist, hip and any other problem area. Basically that bodice needs to be traced off my woven core, and that collar - isn't it fabulous. Well, it doesn't stay that way without pad stitching.
 So what exactly is pad stitching? I mean it looks easy enough and pretty straight forward, although some of us may wonder why in the world are you stitching all that to the garment surface when you're going to face it and it will stay in place?
I mean why do all that stitching - what does it do?
What it really does is it makes the fabric roll. You are stitching in the curve in the fabric.
This is what it's really supposed to look like when you are sewing in a curve. Those little stitches next to the twill tape are close together for a reason. They are sewing in a very tight curve, while the stitches further from the roll line (closer to the edge of the lapel) don't need to curve so much, but they do need to curve just a little. See how the other side doesn't curve? That's not been worked yet.Â
Now, this still looks easy doesn't it. But you go through and put in a bunch of stitches to connect the horsehair canvas to the fashion fabric, and if you don't know how to do this, you will end up with a flat piece of fabric - no roll, no curve no nothing.
So, now storms are rolling in and the electricity is probably going to go off any minute. I did a little video of how to do this, with some really nice information in it. Here's this video of an old collar I did. It's interesting too, but since I can't get the video edited and up in time, I'm going to put a link in this video to see the other one. Hopefully that makes sense.Â
Just view this video for the link to the other that I may not get up till tomorrow cause of these storms. Â
Pad stitching is really a lot more than simply applying a bunch of hand tics onto your fabric. Once you learn how to do this, a whole new way of manipulating and shaping your fabric can begin to come to you.Â
Pad stitching isn't only for lapels and tailored suits!
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The SewingArtistry Resource Library is designed to contain information to not only make your sewing better, but to aid you in fit and flattery of your shape, size and style. Check it out.Â
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The Ponte Jacket Class has been rescheduled. We had so many who wanted to take it but couldn't get here or for one reason or another didn't work out. We've rescheduled it for September, when we are more interested in jackets, and particularly something that will make us look professional and responsible - because there are times when we need that look. You can click here to get more information for the class on September 20, 21, and 22nd. If you need any information about places to stay or other accommodation questions, simply respond to this email and I will get back to you. I love my city and love showing it off!Â
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