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June 2, 2023
So when is a garment done? When are the alterations all finished and how will you know you've done everything to finish a garment?
This is a common problem that all artists deal with.
Here's the truth. Your garment will never be done, and there is not an artist out there who really considers the work done, there's always one more stroke, or turn of a color or something that would make it better.
Tackling fitting, assembly techniques and making the garment flattering as possible means that you will be dealing with a myriad of problems that either take way too much resources to work through or they simply won't matter. With three different areas that you are working through it's important to remember that there will be times, many times, when you can't possibly know everything there is to know nor can you make a garment
perfect.
We are imperfect beings, and as such to expect perfection from imperfect beings isn't reasonable or plausible, and can lead to a lot of extra work that we really shouldn't concern ourselves with.
Take for example this masterpiece. No one would dare say that there's anything wrong with it. It's perfection is sublime. And especially if you are an art student and studying line, movement, point of focus, balance, and all those other wonderful elements of composition, you would go nuts over this piece, cause it makes an A+ in all those categories.
But let's look a little closer: that neck - it's sorta stretched kinda weird on Venus's left side. It doesn't stretch out into the head - the neck simply shoots up at the same angle from the shoulder, and her left shoulder looks way too low. The proportions are wrong there, and her left ankle has an abnormal high arch, or something's hinky with that ankle.
You say, well, no one would notice that, and that's being nit-picking.
You're right it is, but when we start looking at our own garments and wondering why they don't look right, or that the hem seems 1/32" of an inch higher on one side than the other side, or the lapel doesn't roll down just exactly like the other side. We need to take a proper perspective.
So where do you find that proper perspective? Certainly not in the clothes that we see in the stores today. So where do we look? The best place that is available to a lot of us, is to see vintage clothing, and that might be as new as the 1980s or 1970s. The clothing made during that time was not couture, but it was beautifully made. It has some of the best workmanship you can find. Another great place is in a men's
haberdashery store, and it should be a fine one. In major metro areas, good stores will carry labels like Oxxford, Dunhill, Paul Smith, Zegna (pronounced zeen' - ya), Brioni, Tom Ford and Hugo Boss. Looking at the finishing, the hems, the seams. You can usually feel how wide the seams are in the jacket. Turning the lapel over to notice the ticks in the back of the lapel will tell you a lot about the technique and execution.
At the same time, you will notice, there might be a tiny hanging thread, there might be a seam that is open at two or three stitches, there might be a fault here and there, so that even in the finest of the best of men's clothing, there will be mistakes.
This should let us all know that there is no way to make a garment perfect. So that should let you off the hook there, but where do you stop? I jokingly say that when you've gotten to the 51st or 52nd wrinkle that you're working on, it's time to let it go. OK, that's supposed to be funny. Because if you've gone that far, I need to have a private talk with you! 😁
My mentor used to say that on a galloping horse no one will know. I took her too literally and would always respond, "But Erma, I won't be on a galloping horse when I'm wearing this!" She would roll her eyes and just groan. Later in my time with her I would say that just to get a rise from her, and she's realize and we would both laugh. But the point is that while we are moving around, and being ourselves, if we
feel comfortable in the garment, we're going to move in a freer and easier way. Because of that we will reflect an ease and gentleness to our spirit that invites people to us like a magnet. And this doesn't matter if you're in a business meeting, at a recital for your grandchild, at an opening, at a really fancy cocktail party, or at a more formal wedding; if you feel comfortable you will project that, and it brings a confidence and ease to your persona that is
always easy to spot. It's the comfort, and the glance in the mirror as we pass by that gives us that great feel. So if the hem is a little shorter in front than in back, who knows?...who cares? If the hip on one side is a little higher and the waist comes in a little more on one side than the other, with the smile and ease of your nature, no one will notice - I promise.
That doesn't mean that we allow a sloppy or major ill-fitting problems go by. They will show. But when you get to about the 5th to 7th wrinkle, unless it's really major, it's time to let it go. Our clothing will always have that wrinkle or two from the natural movement we are making.
Don't compare yourself to beauty pageants or movie stars....
 
The more realistic view is something like this....
When a garment is that clean and fits that closely, it ain't real. I've seen this too many times, when a client has come to me and asked me to do a Jessica Rabbit dress...
There is no way to do this dress because, as she says, "I'm not bad, I'm just drawn that way!" If I were to draw this on someone, fine. But the truth is that this dress doesn't have any means of support - at all.
This shows you the folly of following either movie and pageant costumes as well as the RTW which is the other end of the spectrum.
Here's a good question to ask yourself to determine if you are ready to finish your garment.
"Would you pay the price that you have paid for the fabric and notions, to a store to purchase this garment you are working on now?"
If the answer is yes, then you have your answer - it's time to quit. If the answer is no, then why? What's wrong with the garment that you wouldn't purchase it in a store.
When you reach that point, which may not be perfection and most likely won't, but you would pay the price that you've paid to make the garment, then you have your answer. When I ask this question to my students in class, almost always they answer yes. The garment they are wearing more than satisfies them and when put in this perspective, they know it's time to "leave it that way" as Fred Babb would say!
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The SewingArtistry Resource Library is designed to contain information to not only make your sewing better, but to aid you in fit and flattery of your shape, size and style. Check it out.
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The Ponte Jacket Class has been rescheduled. We had so many who wanted to take it but couldn't get here or for one reason or another didn't work out. We've rescheduled it for September, when we are more interested in jackets, and particularly something that will make us look professional and responsible - because there are times when we need that look. You can click here to get more information for the class on September 20, 21, and 22nd. If you need any information about places to stay or other accommodation questions, simply respond to this email and I will get back to you. I love my city and love showing it off!
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