The Classic - Dissected

August 4, 2023

There are some styles that are so classic that they can't be messed up.  Well, everything can be messed up, but as far as the design part of the Breton shirt, it's really hard to mess it up.  Maybe that's cause if you match those stripes, it's a very haughty way of saying, "I can sew and you can't - you poor slob!!!"

Here's the classic shirt with the 21 stripes and there's a reason for all of it.  This is more commonly known as the French Naval shirt, because members of the French Navy would wear these so that they could be more easily found in the water after they went overboard!  Yikes!

The reason for the 21 stripes are for the 21 victories that Napoleon had.  It's fully a French thing!

But the design is so dang great, that anyone can wear it and look smashing.
 

You don't get much more classic that Picasso, Jackie O, Bridgett Bardot, Chanel and the bad boy of Paris himself - Jean Paul Gaultier.  As a matter of fact Gaultier made it his key theme for his design house.  

And it doesn't even matter what color you do it in.

This makes it ripe for all sorts of variations that can really be a lot of fun. 

Especially this time of year, when it's so hot that nothing seems to feel cool and comfy - nothing except a knit Breton shirt.  

The variations are limitless and staying within a lot of these designs above, will serve you beautifully.  The traditional shirt is meant to be extremely casual, and therefore has an off-the-shoulder look to that casual look.  That's fine, but that isn't my most favorite look.  That means that the shoulder should be on the shoulder for it to look really great on most peoples' bodies.  

Another in-your-face look is to match those stripes on the side, and even match them on the sleeve - that's really great, and it's not that hard, because the knit fabric is so forgiving, that you can scoot it around till it matches.   

For the most part it looks like men's shirts are the only ones with a solid neckline. But who cares if this is for men only, cause we sewists can do what we like and make a solid neckline for ourselves.  This is a nice little touch and it avoids having to work so hard to make sure the white stripe is cut straight, but also applied straight, which is a tough thing to do.

Here's my take on this - in green (of course - I've never met a green I didn't like).  This is out of my core pattern which I know looks gorgeous on me and hangs beautifully, but I wanted to do a few other minor details that would make this even better looking.

So what's more French than doing a bateau neckline.  That's fine, but there's going to be some serious problems, that as sewists, we can fix that wouldn't even be close to RTW.

• The bateau (French for boat) neckline needs to have two things - stability and be stationary.
  • Stability is simply a grosgrain (French again, which means large welts or ribs) ribbon that curves just slightly, but makes the neckline stable and lay flatly.  
  • Since the bateau neckline is a little larger at the sides, that means it needs to be stationary, which can easily be done by adding bra-strap loops sewn into the shoulder seam, and the place the neckline needs to rest to look right.  The loops attach with a snap, and snap the top in place on the bra strap, and the garment is stationary.
• But that's not the end of it.  What happens if we put a very French take on the cuffs - like a Chanel  jacket cuff.  Using the grosgrain as a stabilizer (otherwise the knit couldn't hold stable with the heavy metal buttons), the grosgrain becomes a trim-looking element with the worked buttons holes just like a French quilted jacket.  

Next time I make this though, I'm placing the sleeve placket closer to where Chanel places it, a little more forward, so that the buttons are not in the way when I lean my elbow on an armrest.  

 

The top has gotten a huge resort look to it, and for the middle of summer (or almost dogs days of summer), upon us, it's fun to think about something fresh, that isn't that hard, and last forever - like the classic Breton shirt!

The SewingArtistry Resource Library is designed to contain information to not only make your sewing better, but to aid in you fitting and flattering your shape, size and style.  Check it out. 

The Ponte Jacket Class has been rescheduled.  We had so many who wanted to take it but couldn't get here for one reason or another so it didn't work out.  We've rescheduled it for September, when we are more interest in jackets, and particularly something that will make us look professional and responsible -- because there are times when we need that look.  You can click here to get more information for the class on September 20, 21, and 22.  If you need any information about places to stay or other accommodations, simply respond to this email and I will get back to you.  I love my city and love showing it off!

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