Trying Again

It's not often I send out an email more than once in a week, but trying something completely different here.  This is a different template so there will be a little learning and hearing back from you about what you like about it and what you don't like - I really want to know, cause honestly I can't read your mind.....so here goes for the second time this week.

Last time we left storms were rolling through the city and I forgot to put up the link for the uploaded video.  I was in the process of editing the other video when the storms hit and fortunately I didn't lose anything, except power!  Such is the life in the springtime in tornado alley!

So the fun part this week is that I get to share two videos and lots of ideas about what you can do with pad stitching. My favorites are shawl collars and variants of that.

Collars like this:

...are made for pad stitching and you can hide it under that trim.  Obviously this isn't something we're going to rush right out and do as there's the little matter of practicality.  

But there are other looks.

All of these have beautiful rolled collars and it's clear to see that in two of them why that is.  The collars on the top and bottom two are obviously done with pad stitching - that hand stitching across the lapels and collars.  The one in the middle isn't so obvious, but it's also got pad-stitching but with a neat twist.  They've done the stitching so that it shows and it's become a decorative element in the collar.  I love the idea of this and can't wait to try this on a very interesting look.  

This is the perfect example of how the traditional rolled collar should look.

 

See how large the stitches are  as you move from the roll line to the outside seam of the lapel.  With this kind of technique there are a myriad of ways to use this to give the sort of roll or soft movement of a fabric in just the right place at just the right roll - tight or loose.  

 

For me the shawl collar - seen here in the traditional style worn by Bond - has way more variations. 

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The one on the left is a typical smooth shawl collar, but with the collar width exaggerated.  There is no way this would stand as beautifully as it does here, without pad stitching which shapes the collar to bend or stand up exactly where the designer wants.  The one on the right looks very classic, but has the shawl curve of the lapel as corners, so that if it were turned up the collar would over lap and be warm and cozy.  Both are very neat variations on a shawl collar and respond beautifully when pad stitched into the shape, curve and the way the lapel lays.  

I want to take the mystery out pad-stitching.  Sometimes there are sewing teachers who like to make out that certain techniques are extremely difficult and only with decades of practice can you even hope to master them.  Yes, there's practice involved, but don't make this hard.  Working with another student, I came up with an interesting way for you to practice doing some pad stitching.  I want you to get into the habit of curing the fabric with your stitching.  We normally sew stitches in such a way as to allow the fabric to be flat.  We're trying to put that way of sewing to the side.  and then work toward sewing a curve or shape into the fabric.  

 

Here's a primer video on how I did this with my green coat collar.  I s hould qualify this by saying that I have five green coats.  The symptom or privilege of seiwng my own clothes.  I love green so I get to have five green coats!
 

This video is a bit longer and takes you through the technique that I worked out with my student here.  You will see it is definitely as exaggeration of the technique.  This is on purpose.  I want you to get the feel of this technique and process.  Then, you can do pad-stitching for real.  I've done the exaggerated technique then taken that out and done the real technique so you can see the difference.  This is a jacket where I put the roll line in wrong cause I didn't have it marked properly - so I guessed which I was putting the garment together.  Yep, I guessed wrong, because I didn't know where the notches were, cause I had forgotten to mark them.  Always mark those dots, circles and notices on your collar and lapel.  And like anyone else, I've been dreading doing this, but knew I had to.  Once done, not only am I relieved, but as you can see the collar lays so much softer and so much more correctly - the way I had originally intended.  But this is an excellent way to learn how to sew a curve into the fabric.  Soon you will be sewing things across the tips of your fingers to get a good roll line, and then over the palm of your hand to get a good curve in the lapel.  

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The SewingArtistry Resource Library is designed to c ontain information to not only make your sewing better, but to aid in you in a fit and flattering presentation of your shape, size and style.  Check it out.

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The Ponte Jacket Class has been rescheduled.  We had so many who wanted to take it but couldn't get here for one reason or another so it didn't work out.  We've rescheduled it for September, when we are more interested in jackets, and particularly something that will make us look professional and responsible - because there are times when we need that look.  You can click here to get more information for the class on September 20, 21, and 22.  If you need any information about places to stay or other accommodations, simple respond to this email and I will get back to you.  I love my city and love showing it off!  

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