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June 23, 2023
Well, that was fun - storms were rolling through when we last parted, and I forgot to put up the link for the uploaded video. I was in the process of editing the other video when they hit and fortunately I didn't lose anything, except power! Such is life in the springtime in tornado alley.
So the fun part this week is that I get to share two videos and lots of ideas about what you can do with pad stitching. My favorites are shawl collars and variants of that.
Collars like this:
...are made for pad stitching and you can hide it under that trim. Obviously this isn't something we're going to go right out and make simply because we don't have anywhere to wear it, or at least I don't think so. This is more period than anything else - not even eccentric would cover this description today.
But there are other looks like this:
 
 
All of these have a beautiful rolled collar, and it's clear to see that in two of them why that is. The collars on the left it isn't so clear, but they have a beautiful roll none the less. My bet is that the white one has some sort of very light-weight interfacing like an organza, that is shaped in with some very delicate and light weigh pad stitching. This sort of thing would be so elegant and soft to
wear you'd wear it to lounge in. Well, maybe not to lounge in, but it would be very comfortable. The lower left is probably decoratively stitched with a pad stitch but done so expertly that it looks like a decoration, AND it also causes the collar to drape just right. That might make a gorgeous look - top stitching on the top side to make a roll, then add the collar on to the neckline - using the same technique you would when assembling a French-quilted type
jacket.
The point here is that although those gorgeous tailors put out some very neat looking stuff...
 
...there is nothing like what we ladies can do with a pad-stitched collar and lapel, particularly when it comes to a shawl lapel.
A Shawl collar is one that is one piece all the way around the neck and has no "notch" in it. A gentleman's collar does have a notch most often in it, and only for very formal occasions does a gentleman wear a shawl collar.
For me, a shawl collar has infinite amount more variation ideas than a notched.
 
One on the left is a typical smooth shawl collar, but the one on the right is the inverse of a notched collar, where the notch goes in, this one has the corner going out, but it's still classified as notched collar. Neither one of these has ANY success w/o pad stitching which can make these collars sing like they are a nightingale!
This one has no hope at all without pad stitching, and if it's a light-weight fabric, then it can be done very delicately, with very small tiny stitches and can be elegant to wear.
I want to take the mystery out of pad-stitching. Sometimes there are sewing teachers who like to make out that certain techniques are extremely difficult and only with decades of practice can you even hope to master them. Yes, there's practice involved, but don't make this hard. Working with another student, I came up with an interesting way for you to "practice" doing some pad stitching. I want you to get into the habit of curving the fabric with
your stitching. We normally sewing stitches in such as way as to allow the fabric to be flat. We're trying to put that way of sewing to the side, and then work toward sewing a "curve" or "shape" into the fabric.
Here's a primer video on how I did this with my green coat collar. I should qualify that cause I have five green coats, the symptom or privilege of sewing my own clothes - I love green so I get to have five green coats! Here's that video.
The second video is a bit longer and takes you through the technique that I worked out with my student here. You will see it is definitely an exaggeration of the technique. This is on purpose. I want you to get the feel of this technique and process. Then, you can do pad-stitching for real. I've done the exaggerated technique then taken that out and done the "real"
technique so you can see the difference. This is a jacket where I put the roll line in wrong cause I didn't have it marked - so I guessed. Yep, guessed wrong - even an expert like me, so have to take it out and do it right. I've been dreading it, but after I've done the one side, I now KNOW it's not only the right thing to do I can't wait to do it on the other side to make my jacket really sing (like a nightingale)!!!
The SewingArtistry Resource Library is designed to contain information to not only make your sewing better, but to aid you in fit and flattery of your shape, size and style. Check it out.
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The Ponte Jacket Class has been rescheduled. We had so many who wanted to take it but couldn't get here or for one reason or another didn't work out. We've rescheduled it for September, when we are more interested in jackets, and particularly something that will make us look professional and responsible - because there are times when we need that look. You can click here to get more information for the class on September 20, 21, and 22nd. If you need any information about places to stay or other accommodation questions, simply respond to this email and I will get back to you. I love my city and love showing it off!
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