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December 15, 2022
One of the fun things to do in sewing my own clothes is to mix things up - make something formal out of a normally casual fabric, make something casual out of a normally formal fabric, and then to mix up techniques. Using what would be normally very high tailoring techniques, but use it on a fabric that you wouldn't normally think of - like double knit or ponte. So how would that look.
Well, I've done that before and tackling it again, because the result is so spectacular. Taking the best part of a ponte, neoprene, double knit or scuba knit (all of these are stable knits meaning that they don't have a high percentage of stretch.
So let's talk a little about the percentage stretch. It's important here. Pontes like double knits, neoprene and scuba knits are stable knits. They don't stretch very much. But how much is "not very much?" That's the big question, and there's a helpful answer to that, which is easy to find out for any knit you are working with. Not only that but the stretch percentage, can tell you what garment
your knit fabric will be best made in.
Computing the stretch percentage is easy. Start with 4 inches on the widthwise grain of the fabric. Stretch the fabric out to where it stops. Take that measurement and minus the 4. With the measurement left, divide that by 4 and you will get the percentage stretch. For example 4" of fabric that stretches all out to 5" is 25% stretch (5 - 4 = 1. 1 ÷ 4 = .25 or 25%). Another example is 4" of fabric
stretches to 10" and yes it can stretch that much. This would be 150% (10 - 4 = 6. 6 ÷ 4 = 1.5 or 150%).
Most pattern companies divide stretch knit percentages into three categories: Stable, Jersey and Activewear. It helps to know what the math is on this, so that when you get ready to make a garment you are using the correct percentage for the stretch of the fabric.
Stable Knits:
Double Knit, Ponte, Ponte de Roma, Scuba Knit, and Neoprene.
The stretch percentage here is from 20% to 35%. This isn't much stretch but it's enough that makes garments very comfortable, and because it's such a "stable" knit, it can be sculpted and tailored.
Jersey Knits:
These knits are in the medium stretch range and can be used mostly for tops. The thinner and stretchier versions can be used for draping as in waterfall fronts. The thicker versions can make very nice thin pants - not leggings, but thin pants. They look very nice and hang well, but stretch nicely when you are sitting or bending your knees. This group is the 40% to 75% stretch.
Activewear Knits:
This group is the stretchiness of all knits. They often contain the content stretch fabrics like Elastane, Lycra or Spandex. These are rubber stretch - like a rubber band. This group has stretch from 80% to whatever - sometimes I've seen these stretch into 300%. This group really stretches and that's why it's perfect for turtlenecks and leggings that require high stretch percentages.
Types of Knits:
The two types are mechanical and content.
Mechanical Stretch
The mechanical stretch is where the fabric is woven to stretch. So how can that be? Like this:
Notice how like B the stretch of the fabric widthwise and lengthwise will stretch in the knit weave. The A fabric does not stretch at all - the typical basketweave of a standard woven fabric. Mechanical stretch lasts forever. It never degrades in stretch. However the recovery isn't always as fast as we might like. Hence at the end of the day we may get "spring" (like butt springs and knee springs) in the garment.
When they hang overnight, usually those will recover and be as new, but it will take a while. Of course if they are washed, they will completely recover (unless it's wool, then you will have to block it out when you've washed it).
Content Stretch
Sometimes fabrics are woven (like the A line above) but they still have stretch. This is when the content of the fiber has a little stretch to it, so that it will have some give. This stretch is about 10% stretch percentage - very little. Most of the time, this fabric should be made from a woven pattern. A well-fitting woven pattern done in this "stretch woven" is really a delightful garment to wear. I have some jackets
from old woven patterns, and when I make them in stretch wovens, they are wonderful to wear through my "expanse" times and my non-expanse times which seem to be fewer and fewer these days!
Content stretch will recover beautifully like a rubber band. And this includes the stretch wovens and those that are mechanical stretch with the Lycra, Spandex and Elastane. They keep their shape beautifully through the day. However over time, the Lycra, Spandex and Elastane will dry out and crack - like rubberbands. They will disintegrate and the garment really doesn't have much of a life after that. This is why
you have to replace the elastic in pants or skirts that are old. If all you have to do is replace the elastic in the waistband, then the garment is salvageable. But think of a bathing suit, that the stretch has grown old, dry and cracking. You will most likely see little broken stretch fiber sized filaments sticking out from the garment. That's a sign that the garment is losing the elasticity that the Lycra, Spandex and Elastane provided.
To help with all this, I made this video for you to watch. It's short (for me), but most of all it will help you select the right stretch fabric for the garment you are making.
Enjoy!
The SewingArtistry Resource Library is designed to contain information to not only make your sewing better, but to aid you in fit and flattery of your shape, size and style. Check it out.
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