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July 22, 2022
There are really so many variations on what you can do with your core pattern, that it's hard for me to list them all. But what I can do (and have been trying to do this summer) is break these down into categories.
One of my favorite categories is "my own creations" which are made up of things I've seen and altered a little or a general idea that I knew might need some tweaking to make it work for me. Even things I've had or worn in the past that were particularly flattering or some look I've really liked.
One of the things that makes creating variations for me, is that I'm very sure of what looks good on me. This helps tremendously because then I'm not considering every look with every possible variation. So narrowing down what looks good on you is so helpful in keeping your choices from becoming over-powering which can happen so easily. Don't think that you have to have every style of collar, front, silhouette, length or look that's out there.
After having designed for so many of my clients for so many years, I know the pitfalls in their figures and know how to tell them what to wear and what not to wear to keep them looking great.
So working with you all, this summer, I've been trying to get variations into "groups" - hopefully in an organized manner, so as to cover most variation types.
So here's the categories I'm thinking about
- Variations from Your Ideas - memories, favorite parts of clothes you've owned
- Variations from other patterns - how to take one part of a pattern and put it onto your core pattern
- Variations from Other ideas - collected pics (Pinterest), things you've seen window shopping
- Variations according to parts - necklines, sleeves, body blocks, closures, types. (This list can get pretty long)
What I'm trying to organize here is in titles that can give you ideas, and not so much in "types."
LMK how you like those and of course any suggestions.
So on the monthly Zoom, we talked about how to trace off a part of one pattern to put it on your core pattern.
Your core pattern contains the basic information of shape, size and style - and by style I mean the look and cut that flatters you so that you are presented at your best. But that also means that by definition this style is very boring because it is basic. That means that it requires some jazzing up which is something that you can do with your variations - a different collar, a new sleeve look, a fun closure, and playing with blocks. These all help
jazz up your look but still using the same information that's in your basic core pattern.
It's important to realize here that you shouldn't change the basic line and style of your core pattern cause that's what you've worked so hard to get right and fitted and flattering so you don't want to lose that. At the same time you don't want to have something boring. Although making up your core pattern in different colors and different patterns, goes a long way toward variations. There are times when you simply want a solid top - black,
white, neutral, to go with everything and your core pattern can do that for you.
Starting Off
One of the best places to start is by start collecting ideas off the internet or if you still do catalogues, take ideas there.
 Look at this neckline and top - this is so much my look - but there's a lot of collar here. The collar is irregular on both sides, which is okay for this artsy-fartsy look, but I want something more symmetrical. The inside has that collar band and shirt. Obviously this would be for a colder climate,
but still fabulous looking especially for me. So do I make this two pieces or one? Do I put a collar insert in like that or make a "vest" or an actual shirt? Which would I get the most use out of? The point is that this photograph makes me think about 5 different variations and all of them are doable. The more I look at this, the more I like the idea of a vest and then in the winter I could wear the vest on the outside with a shirt or neutral knit top
underneath. In the summer this would go over a light-weight linen or cotton jacket with that scrumptious flipped collar.
This idea just looks like a fabulous closure - maybe something asymmetrical with a large yummy collar folding open at the top - almost double/double breasted, with two whole front pieces and that panel coming across to close it, with the top and bottom open (but not too open cause the flap would be doubled in front. I also like the vertical and horizontal lines in this piece.
See even something this simple has a number of ideas in it - contrast of the vertical and horizontal, double/double breasted and that fabulous under-bust/above waist closure - you could even do that closure in two different contrasting/compatible prints.
And then here's another collar - with a dickie of sorts on the inside with an applique of a 2nd collar on top of the big collar.
These sorts of details around the neck are so cool and full of creative and inventive ideas.
One thing to notice about all these styles - none of them has any flattering like or shape to them. This is the part of "art to wear" or "art wear" that I hate the most. There is no reason all this beautiful detailed work can be on a flattering top like your core pattern. Even the mosaic of fabrics that they use in these designs are another inspiration, and something that would be not only just as good on a core pattern, but make the
garment sing, because it has all your shape, size and style in it!
These are the sorts of things that I love collecting on my Ideas board on Pinterest. Then when I get some time and need some inspiration, I head over there in about 4 or 5 pics, I have about 20 ideas, then I'm down with the research part, go to the focus part, and to the tracing from my core pattern part, to the cutting out part, to the sewing up part and BOOM - it's on my back!
Pinterest is one of the great black holes of the internet. I have to go on there with a timer otherwise it's 7:30 am and then suddenly it's time to take the dog for his evening walk - and this time of year that's about 12 hours later, and I wonder what happened to the day. At the same time it can be a personalized curated cache of ideas, that when you DO NEED IDEAS, there it is for you! The great thing here is that with a board and
sub-boards, you can collect and organize your ideas to such a point that even searching through them for ideas, can be focused and time-efficient.
That's not to say that when these photos come up on Pinterest (the thoughtful little devils that they are), always have a few suggestions based on your original photo that you can peruse through - and thus you are sucked into the black hole of ideas! But no fear, cause that's what the research phase of doing your own design is all about - - just don't get lost in that black hole❗❗❗
One Last Source
So there's one last suggestion here, and this can be very helpful. Although Pinterest has a lot of suggestions and ideas, most of these are not really curated for good style and design. There is a place that does have that, and I love it for that reason.
Vogue.com - Runway
At the top you select designers, and a list of designers will appear. Some of the more traditional and well-designed people are like:
- Oscar de la Renta,
- Tom Ford,
- Zac Posen,
- Badgley Mischka,
- Jill Sander,
- Dolce & Gabbana
Mostly what I'm looking for are details:
- lapel widths/contrast,
- silhouettes,
- cuff,
- collar,
- hem dress details,
- fabric prints and
- colors.
And this doesn't mean that you aren't going to see some pretty weird stuff. I go past that stuff and stick to the more traditional and classic styles. They don't have to be boring, but these traditional and classic looks last so much longer and why not enjoy your garment for as long as you can?!
It's hard to qualify and organize all the different variations you can have, and I really don't like doing that anyway, because, as a teacher, it's my job to point you in the right direction and give you a big oomph, and let you take the steps you want along your journey of discovery. I certainly don't wan to limit you to one type of variation, when there are so many.
And hopefully this will prompt you to create some variations on your own!
Enjoy!
This is a beginning guide on what to do with your core pattern after you have fitted and worked on it.
All the work that you have done in your core pattern contains all the information to make a garment that you will totally love. This means you really don't have to buy another pattern for making skirts, pants or leggings. Variations on your core pattern makes it possible for you to have the styles you see in a photo or on Pinterest without having to look for the pattern that looks like it might work. You can now simply trace it onto your core pattern and
you're done.
This resource also contains some other important resources at huge discount because they are so important to this creative process of varying your core pattern. It also contains some downloads that aren't available in the Resource Library at all, but are vital toward making good design.
In this world of crazy, illogical fashion, we sewists are having to turn into designers. That sounds really hard and foreboding, but it's not. Unlike designers, we simply haven't had all the experience they have, most of that experience they got when they went to design school. More than anything I wanted to make this process encouraging, empowering and enlightening without having to worry about whether or not you could vary your core pattern.
You can! It isn't that hard. It is knowing some guidelines and charging out into the unknown. That's what we sewists do and we do it very well most of the time.
This is the beginning of the series into variations on core patterns. I wanted to start with something basic, so that you wouldn't feel so intimidated. It takes a while to write these up, cause I'm an idea factory, and coordinating and organizing these ideas can be monumental with the sewing muse yacking in my ear 24/7.
The resource is available now at a discount so that you can enjoy it before spring starts in full force. Right now, I'm thinking happy, colorful and pretty. Those are all fresh looks for future clothes. When things seem upside down, it's great to have something to make us happy and often bright, springtime and summertime fabrics are just as much as drab, dark and somber fabrics. I'm ready to be beautiful, comfortable and look flattering in my clothes and
I'm dying to share that with you.
Skirts, Core Pattern Variations, Part 1 (but there's more than skirts in here)
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