June 17, 2022
Thinking about Sewing Patterns Differently
So what does that mean? Mostly that sewing patterns, once you have a core pattern, can be ideas rather than whole patterns to purchase and cut from.
Why?
Because you have so much valuable time-proven information in your core pattern. Basically all you have to do is trace the new sewing pattern onto your core pattern.
Here's what that looks like.
 This is Burda 03-22 #126 which is a cute little linen Blouse that's very summery looking.
This has some VERY interesting features. That bib goes right over the bust line which means that that can be a fitting line.
The other are the cute ruffles at the bottom. You have to be careful if you're an Apple or Rectangle and you don't want those to be too lose, so they might be better as pleats so that it's more controlled.
Note I'm using the technical sketch of the pattern, not the artistic one or the photograph.
A. This is your original pattern with side bust dart and lower waist/bust dart. Now draw a line that curves right through the bust point (that circle with the + in the middle is the bust point). This is where the bib seam will go.
B. On the bodice we're going to rotate those two darts. Draw a line from the DART POINT to the bib seam.
C. Cut that bib-seam to dart point line just to the dart point. Fold the side bust dart (you will have to cut out the piece to make this fold right), so that there is not side bust dart any more.
D. Now do the same here to rotate that bust/waist dart. Draw a line from the bib seam to the dart point of the waist/bust dart. Cut along that line just to the dart point. Fold in that bust/waist dart and rotate to make a dart on the bib seam.
E. Pattern all cleaned up. Now when you make this up instead of doing two darts, simply gather that in and it will be an excellent fit.
Now why go to all that trouble? Why not just purchase the pattern out right where everything is already drawn up the way you want?
The primary reason is that the newly purchased pattern won't fit, most likely won't be comfy and certainly won't be flattering. All that fitting, flattery, and comfort is already contained in the pattern. Why go through all that fitting and working with the pattern, when you simply have to rotate some darts, and trace a line that will become a new seam, then add the seam allowance.
But aside from the minor adjustments in the pattern, your core pattern contains so much valuable information that is lost when you use a new pattern. Working with your core pattern and then altering it can be such an uplifting experience because even when you're design isn't probably the best, the fit and shape and comfort is still good, and the garment ends up working all the same! I've done some pretty rare things with my core pattern that might not really
be good design, but it doesn't matter cause the fit, comfort and flattery is so dang good, that it turns out in the end.
That doesn't mean that you can't fix the design in a later garment, you sure can. But it DOES mean that your first garment won't be a tanker. It will be something you can wear again and again and feel good in (mentally, fashionably and physically).
And that's what this is about.
OK - some more eye candy for designing. I found these on a Russian site and nearly had a cow they are so much fun. I'm going to do a little discussion on this top on the monthly Zoom on the 22nd. And watch me while I do that dart rotation on my core pattern for the cute Burda pattern.
More eye candy ideas:
 
These aren't that hard to do on your core pattern, and in all those seams you can hide darts and other fitting mechanisms and it will look like the seams are only design seams, only it will fit you perfect and skim your body where you want it to and be full a loose where you want it too - all the time flattering your shape and style.
This month's Zoom is on Wednesday June 22nd at 4pm CDT. LMK (send a reply to this email with "Zoom Link" in the title) and I'll send out the link for the call on Monday the 20th! Also LMK if there's something you want to ask me or for me to talk about! These are always taped, which means if you can't make it, ask a question in the email
to me, and you have a link to the whole shebang after it's done!
This is a beginning guide on what to do with your core pattern after you have fitted and worked on it.
All the work that you have done in your core pattern contains all the information to make a garment that you will totally love. This means you really don't have to buy another pattern for making skirts, pants or leggings. Variations on your core pattern makes it possible for you to have the styles you see in a photo or on Pinterest without having to look for the pattern that looks like it might work. You can now simply trace it onto your core pattern and
you're done.
This resource also contains some other important resources at huge discount because they are so important to this creative process of varying your core pattern. It also contains some downloads that aren't available in the Resource Library at all, but are vital toward making good design.
In this world of crazy, illogical fashion, we sewists are having to turn into designers. That sounds really hard and foreboding, but it's not. Unlike designers, we simply haven't had all the experience they have, most of that experience they got when they went to design school. More than anything I wanted to make this process encouraging, empowering and enlightening without having to worry about whether or not you could vary your core pattern.
You can! It isn't that hard. It is knowing some guidelines and charging out into the unknown. That's what we sewists do and we do it very well most of the time.
This is the beginning of the series into variations on core patterns. I wanted to start with something basic, so that you wouldn't feel so intimidated. It takes a while to write these up, cause I'm an idea factory, and coordinating and organizing these ideas can be monumental with the sewing muse yacking in my ear 24/7.
The resource is available now at a discount so that you can enjoy it before spring starts in full force. Right now, I'm thinking happy, colorful and pretty. Those are all fresh looks for future clothes. When things seem upside down, it's great to have something to make us happy and often bright, springtime and summertime fabrics are just as much as drab, dark and somber fabrics. I'm ready to be beautiful, comfortable and look flattering in my clothes and
I'm dying to share that with you.
Skirts, Core Pattern Variations, Part 1 (but there's more than skirts in here)
On the Blog
|
|
|
We may think that the models on the runway are all bone-thin, and they are, but how close are they ...
|
|
|
|
The Met Gala is the creation of Anna Wintour, chief editor of Vogue US, and she manages to outdo herself ...
|
|
|
|
I wrote this about 10 years ago but since then I've changed IT folks twice, changed hosting services, had my ...
|
To view in browser (so all images can be seen) or past emails or in your browser click here.
NOTE: Some email clients, software and web sites, do not allow pictures because they can contain nasty worms and viruses - ICK! So they will by default block you from seeing the pictures. This is a security measure from your email. I can't change that cause that means I would have to get inside your computer and mess with your security which you don't want! So you can do two things: 1.) you can disable your image blocker and that will
depend upon your software. You can Google it to see how to do that for your specific email. 2.) You can view it in your browser which is equipped to handle the nasties that might be in pictures. To do that you can click here to enjoy the full email with pictures!!
To talk about a sewing problem, a style quandary or size situation one on one with Claire, click here.
We respect your email privacy.
|
